One of our highlights of this trip, and the only real thing we had booked, was the 4 day Inca Trail trek to Machu Picchu. It did not disappoint. After spending several days in Cusco checking out the Inca ruins around the city, we set off with our tour agency and 14 fellow trekkers in the early hours of Friday morning. It takes a couple of hours drive to the start of the trek where there is a bit of official paperwork required and passport stamping, and porter weigh ins. And then we were off for the first day of quite easy hiking. Spending several weeks at altitude and hiking the physically gruelling Colca Canyon had certainly improved out fitness levels and we cruised through the day passing Andean wilderness and other Inca sites along the way. The weather was perfect, warm during the day, cold at night but with an abundance of stars and a feast of food perpared for us the chaskis ...aka the fleet foot runners... who carry everything from the tents, food, chairs etc.
Day 2 was the toughest day with a mostly uphill climb covering 1200 ascending metres that day, and going through the pass known as Dead Womans Pass. It was hard going, but again, our new healthy bodies carried us through leading the group to the top. The campsite was at 4200m so it was a cold night but in such a beuatiful valley with high Andean mountains surrounding us.
Day 3 was the longest day but walking through cloud forest and several Inca sites was fantastic and we could walk at our own pace for the most part and so we often found ourselves alone to appreicate the stunning mountain scenery which at times verges on rainforest with varying degress of humidity.
Up early on the last day...4am...to join the line of other hikers waiting at the last checkpoint of the Machu Picchu National Park. On our way at 5.30am for the final hour or so hike to the famous Inca city...althougb it should be said that it is neither the biggest or the lost or the last city of the Incas. The biggest site is in the same general area although another good 5 or something days hike and not promoted well. The lost city is still lost and though to possibly be in the Amazon basin. But Machu Picchu is the most well known and were stoked to be there and so it was slightly disappointing to wake after 3 days of perfect weather hiking to discover rain and cloud and when we finally reached the Sun Gate for the ´postcard photo´ of Machu Picchu...there was nothing to see...thats right...nada. Continiuing on, we hiked down to the main centre and took a break and prayed to PachuMama ...Mother Earth in South America...for some clearance on the clouds...and it soon happened, yeah!!! and we set off to explore the site.
Machu Pichu is bigger than i expected and so perfectly preserved. The Incas really were smart guys as the buildings they made in the 15th century have withstood several earthquakes and remain today as an outstanding relic of architecture and workmanship. We learnt from our great guide David, and saw for ourselves that the Incas knew about toilets and drainages systems, we saw their lock systems and housing for the noble plus the villagers, watch towers and ceremonial rocks. It was so rewarding to be there, until the hoards of tourists started to arrive on the buses, and having been there since 6am and perhaps unfairly feeling like we deserved the place to be less packed after 4 days of hiking, we took in the site and retired down to the town of Aguas Calientes for lunch and then a soak in the hot springs with a pisco sour brought to us the pools. Ah...so well deserverd.
All up, we hiked 42km and by the 4th day, my body was feeling weary. The Inca Trail is well worn and for the most part fairly easy underfoot, however I enjoyed it more than i thought as I had a feeling there may be too many people on the trail. The Peruvian government has strictly limited numbers on the trail nowadays, however, they could do with limiting the numbers at Machu Picchu as well. But its a prime tourist attractrion and the cost of a coffee alone was an slap in the face reminder that they are raking it in here. Intersting to see what happens in the next few years as Machu Picchu is sinking at a rate of 1cm a year and there is talk of building viewing bridges around the site to prevent people walking on it. But if its cloudy like what intially happend to us, then you cant see anything til it lifts and you walk lower.
Anyways...we left very satisfyied and tired and I thoroughly enjoyed my massge the next day back in Cusco before taking an overnight bus to Lima the following night. The 18 hour bus trip was more than 22 hours but Lima is not really that nice a city and my bout of food poisoning was probably well timed as there is little we want to see here anyway. Feeling better now, but spent most of the day in bed except to venture out into the weird of blanket that coats this city, and book another bus ticket tommorrow night. Another 18 hours, but this time we get off close to the Ecuadorian border at a beach town called Mancora. No more mountains for awhile...should be a nice change.
Thursday, April 30, 2009
Thursday, April 23, 2009
Cusco, Peru
After our best bus trip so far, we arrived the ancient Inca city of Cusco 3 days ago. The main plaza as you can imagine is filled with toursit restuarants and tour agencies, but surrounding all this is a beautiful city of cobblestone streets, archways, old churches, and Inca architecture. Inca stonework remains perfectly in tact in street walls and buildings including the Iglesia de Santa Domingo church. Back in the 158th century, the Spanish conquistadors tore down structures that were lined with gold and then rebuilt parts. The excellence and finery of the Inca stoneworks is evdidently far superior with perfectly straight lines and very thin limestone bindings.
Yesterday we had a full day of visting Inca sites around Cusco, including Pîsaq (citadels perched high over the villages), Moray (circular terrace experiments in farming), Salineas (the natural salt terraces of the Incas), an Chincero (huge ruins in perfect condition).
We head off on the Inca trail tommorrow...will write more on this post later as i have to get soe things together.
Yesterday we had a full day of visting Inca sites around Cusco, including Pîsaq (citadels perched high over the villages), Moray (circular terrace experiments in farming), Salineas (the natural salt terraces of the Incas), an Chincero (huge ruins in perfect condition).
We head off on the Inca trail tommorrow...will write more on this post later as i have to get soe things together.
Sunday, April 19, 2009
Isla Del Sol - Bolivia. Puno, and Arequipa - Peru
We have been busy since the last time i wrote...changed countries, diets and currencies, hiked canyons and visited floating islands. Here´s an update...
From the coastal town of Copacabana, we took a boat for an hour and half to the tranquil island of Isla Del Sol which sits in the middle of Lake Titicaca on the Bolivian side. It was a beautiful blue sky day and we walked around this big island which has remained fairly unchanged by tourism. Villagers seve coffee in their front yards alongside their llamas, and trails are rocky leading through hills of sheeps and donkeys and plantations of quinoa which is kind of like couscous or rice and is added to soups and mashed like potato. Famous for trout, i enjoyed a change of diet from the regular Bolivian dishs of rice and chicken, and ate trout for 4 days straight. The island was really realxing so we stopped and just sat for a couple of hours on a cliff side in the sun. Being Easter Sunday, or possibly for a wedding celebration or something, there were fireworks over the lake at night before the skies turned and a tremedous storm took place overnight. We left the next day for a 3 hour bus trip across the border to Peru which was a simple process, and this is where we are now.
Arriving in Puno we could see the change in lifestyle quickly. Peru is more accustomed to tourism and people are a little more forward and friendly with travellers. Roads are more likely to be paved, toilets come equip with toilet paper (although not always), and things are just a little more organised. The food so far has been fantastic (alpaca meals have been suberb, and just new menu and market choices...woohoo), and we are throughly enjoying pisco sours which is a alcholic beverage made of pisco (white grape brandy), egg white, sugar syrup and...? Delicious.
We stayed in Puno and visted the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca, which is the floating islands of Uros. Super touristy, but something to be seen regardless. People live and make a living on approx 80 reed islands on the lake. Its quite fascinating to get off the boat and be on a island made entirely of reeds which is soft underfoot. People fish for trout and make crafts and build reed boats as part of a very old culture and lifestyle which has been monopolised by tourism, but is still really special and intersting.
Off to Arequipa next which is where we are now. Arequipa is really quite stunning. It is the nicest city we have been in so far, however more Spanish than indigenous Sth American. Surrounded by huge snow capped volcanoes and mountain ranges, the city centre is remininscent of somwhere in Europe. The plaza is super clean with palm trees and gorgeous churches, the people and restuarants are trendy and the climate is warm.
About 6 hours from Arequipa, lies the worlds second deepest canyon called Canon Del Colca. We have just completed a 2 day/1 nights trek into this canyon (15km all up). It begins at an elevation of 3280m and plummets to the river at 2160m. So the first day is a steep drop of over 1000m, crossing the canyon and walking through local villages which are really quite remote. There are no roads here, so everything is transported by foot or mules or produced locally. We stayed overnight at the bottom in a lodging with a pool but with no electricity, and then of course...what goes down, must come up (the reverse of this saying still works here!) The trek up is said to take about 3 hours and we completed it in about 2 hours, 15 mins which is damn good going if i must say myslef, however my calves are definitely feeling it today! At the end, we visted the hot springs which, at a toasty 39 degrees, was good for the muscles. Another very cool part of this trip was a stop off at the Cruz Del Condor where condors glide through the valley and make spectacular viewing. Their wing span grows to up to 3 metres long and they come really close to the viewing point. We saw several cruise by, very impressive.
Tommorrow night, we are taking a bus to Cusco where we will spend 3 nights before beginning the Inca trail to Machu Picchu.
From the coastal town of Copacabana, we took a boat for an hour and half to the tranquil island of Isla Del Sol which sits in the middle of Lake Titicaca on the Bolivian side. It was a beautiful blue sky day and we walked around this big island which has remained fairly unchanged by tourism. Villagers seve coffee in their front yards alongside their llamas, and trails are rocky leading through hills of sheeps and donkeys and plantations of quinoa which is kind of like couscous or rice and is added to soups and mashed like potato. Famous for trout, i enjoyed a change of diet from the regular Bolivian dishs of rice and chicken, and ate trout for 4 days straight. The island was really realxing so we stopped and just sat for a couple of hours on a cliff side in the sun. Being Easter Sunday, or possibly for a wedding celebration or something, there were fireworks over the lake at night before the skies turned and a tremedous storm took place overnight. We left the next day for a 3 hour bus trip across the border to Peru which was a simple process, and this is where we are now.
Arriving in Puno we could see the change in lifestyle quickly. Peru is more accustomed to tourism and people are a little more forward and friendly with travellers. Roads are more likely to be paved, toilets come equip with toilet paper (although not always), and things are just a little more organised. The food so far has been fantastic (alpaca meals have been suberb, and just new menu and market choices...woohoo), and we are throughly enjoying pisco sours which is a alcholic beverage made of pisco (white grape brandy), egg white, sugar syrup and...? Delicious.
We stayed in Puno and visted the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca, which is the floating islands of Uros. Super touristy, but something to be seen regardless. People live and make a living on approx 80 reed islands on the lake. Its quite fascinating to get off the boat and be on a island made entirely of reeds which is soft underfoot. People fish for trout and make crafts and build reed boats as part of a very old culture and lifestyle which has been monopolised by tourism, but is still really special and intersting.
Off to Arequipa next which is where we are now. Arequipa is really quite stunning. It is the nicest city we have been in so far, however more Spanish than indigenous Sth American. Surrounded by huge snow capped volcanoes and mountain ranges, the city centre is remininscent of somwhere in Europe. The plaza is super clean with palm trees and gorgeous churches, the people and restuarants are trendy and the climate is warm.
About 6 hours from Arequipa, lies the worlds second deepest canyon called Canon Del Colca. We have just completed a 2 day/1 nights trek into this canyon (15km all up). It begins at an elevation of 3280m and plummets to the river at 2160m. So the first day is a steep drop of over 1000m, crossing the canyon and walking through local villages which are really quite remote. There are no roads here, so everything is transported by foot or mules or produced locally. We stayed overnight at the bottom in a lodging with a pool but with no electricity, and then of course...what goes down, must come up (the reverse of this saying still works here!) The trek up is said to take about 3 hours and we completed it in about 2 hours, 15 mins which is damn good going if i must say myslef, however my calves are definitely feeling it today! At the end, we visted the hot springs which, at a toasty 39 degrees, was good for the muscles. Another very cool part of this trip was a stop off at the Cruz Del Condor where condors glide through the valley and make spectacular viewing. Their wing span grows to up to 3 metres long and they come really close to the viewing point. We saw several cruise by, very impressive.
Tommorrow night, we are taking a bus to Cusco where we will spend 3 nights before beginning the Inca trail to Machu Picchu.
Saturday, April 11, 2009
Tiahuanaco, Sorata, and Lake Titicaca - Bolivia
Feliz Semana Santa...or Happy Easter! For this holiday period, we find ourselves in Lake Titicaca - along with the majority of La Paz residents who escape to the seaside (well, lake) for a 4 day break. The timing was not something we had planned, but its been entertaining in many ways. Arriving here on Good Friday was an adventure in itself as we scrambled along the roads with thousands of other vehicles crammed with as many people as there is physical space. With only milimetres spare, drivers would barge on through, and the dual lane road became just one direction with every leaving the city. Intially coming the other way, we were literally run off the road in our bus (which is really a van with seats in it which somehow can fit up to 18 or so people), and got directed on a detour through peoples fields and paddocks kicking up a storm of dust and rocks along the way. The second bus trip enroute to Lake Titicaca was better and we overtook everyone before arriving at the lake where we had to get off the bus so it could get carried over on a barge with the hundreds of other holiday-goers cars. We got on the people barge and then only just found our bus on the other side. A close call.
Lake Titicaca is a place where Catholic pilgrams flock to so on Good Friday evening, there was a candle parade through the town. Cars here get blessed here everyday, not just Easter, so there are cars everywhere sprouting colourful flower decorations. People camp out anywhere and bring their pets along for the holiday season too, including monkeys and llamas. The lake is filled with paddle boats, row boats and kayaks, and so we thought we would holiday with the Bolivians and hopped in a lovely swan paddle boat for some fun this afternoon. Tommorrow we are heading across to the Isla del Sol for the day and night.
Before arriving here, we spent 3 nights in Sorata which is a zen like town surrounded by lush green mountains of plantations and farming families. Great hiking, and we did a full day hike to a place called Gruta San Pedro. It was a huge cave with a biug underground lake and small bats that live inside.
Another day trip in the past week was a venture out of La Paz toTiahuanaco which is Bolivias most significant archaelogical site. A civilisation thought to have risen about 600BC and is older than the Incas. The site is still very much being excated, and it was great to see a work in progress with local people carefully sifting though the site which already has uncovered large and well preserved pyramids and ceremonial grounds.
We are heading to Peru in 2 days so will write next from there.
Lake Titicaca is a place where Catholic pilgrams flock to so on Good Friday evening, there was a candle parade through the town. Cars here get blessed here everyday, not just Easter, so there are cars everywhere sprouting colourful flower decorations. People camp out anywhere and bring their pets along for the holiday season too, including monkeys and llamas. The lake is filled with paddle boats, row boats and kayaks, and so we thought we would holiday with the Bolivians and hopped in a lovely swan paddle boat for some fun this afternoon. Tommorrow we are heading across to the Isla del Sol for the day and night.
Before arriving here, we spent 3 nights in Sorata which is a zen like town surrounded by lush green mountains of plantations and farming families. Great hiking, and we did a full day hike to a place called Gruta San Pedro. It was a huge cave with a biug underground lake and small bats that live inside.
Another day trip in the past week was a venture out of La Paz toTiahuanaco which is Bolivias most significant archaelogical site. A civilisation thought to have risen about 600BC and is older than the Incas. The site is still very much being excated, and it was great to see a work in progress with local people carefully sifting though the site which already has uncovered large and well preserved pyramids and ceremonial grounds.
We are heading to Peru in 2 days so will write next from there.
Friday, April 3, 2009
La Paz, Bolivia
Well...we hit La Paz on Monday morning and began expolring this big, notorious city. Being a capital, La Paz has a commerical and business feel to it with suits and modern attire, mixed in still with the tradiotional skirts and hats of the women {albiet with more ruffles, lace and finer textures}. At an altitude of 3660m, it quite warm during the day and cold at night. The city is nestled between mountains and the centre sits snug in the middle so theres hills to walk to get anywhere.
The witches market is a fascinating strip where you can purchase anything from llama fetuses, herbs, potions, tiger skins...plus your regular Sth American offerings of woven goods and food and drinks. There is no excuse for having un-shined shoes here in La Paz with shoe shine boys on every corner. They wear woollen balaclavas and are quite an intimidating vision at first, but the reason for this is firstly due to the toxicity of the polish, and secondly because it is considered a lowly job and the balaclavas help with anonymity and allow them to be more forward (¨really no, we do not need our dirty suede hiking boots polished thanks!¨)
Our timing was particular good for arriving in La Paz, as Bolivia was playing Argentina in the World Cup qualifier on Wednesday. So we scored some tickets and went along. Due to the altitude and a supposed disadvantage to the visiting team, games are not often played here. But Argentina and Maradona thought they would give it a go anyway. Sold out stadium, awesome seats for 25 aussie dollars and wait for it...Bolivia won 6-1 !! Unheard of, and a historic moment for this country (espceially against one of the best teams in the world) and such an exicting game to be at.
A funny thing about the game was that you can buy tickets to it at a chicken shop in the middle of the city!! Chicken is big over here, and only in Bolivia can you buy tix to the world cup qualifier at the local chicken shop!! We have had several funny restuarant experiences including a stella visit to a Morroccan restuarnt but it doesnt translate in words.
We have not yet made it inside San Pedro jail {aka Marching Powder book for those who have read it}, however we have watched the prisoners being escorted in from the plaza in front. There are police guards around the place, but there are police with riot gear everywhere in Bolivia so this does little to signify that it´s a prison (we apparently missed a riot of some sort by 5 minutes the day of the futbol). The strange thing is that San Pedro is in the very centre of the city, as opposed to the outskirts like you would expect.
As well as a very visible police presence, Bolivia is filled with political messages painted on walls and highways. Messages of new consitutions and pro-Evo (the president) colour the country. Evo is well liked here, and partly for his yes-stance on coca. The chewin of coca in Bolivia is huge and deeply rooted in their traditions for everything. It dates back 2500 BC to pre Inca times (knowledge we acquired in the Coca Musuem). Despite being used in medicine (nowadays synathectic novacaine is used) and of course Coca Cola, coca leaves help the body to take in more oxygen and are therefore a key factor in the lives pf people who live at high altitude.
At the moment, we are in Corioco which is a beautiful town, again surrounded by mountains, but here it is lush and hot and humid. Condors circle the area, flying gracefully on the thermals. We have enjoyed the pool and the sushine today after a very adventuous day yesterday where we rode bikes down the Worlds Most Dangerous Road (or ´Death Road´ if you prefer the short version). Its 64 km, mostly downhill with cliff drop offs 600+ metres. At times the road is really narrow {although, we were expecting it to be worse}. These days, there are little vehicles on this road so not as dangerous as previously where many people have died every year (crosses regularly mark the road). It was fantastic and a real adrenalin thrill to be gunning it down gravel roads through rainforest and waterfalls and sketchy trails. Lots of fun.
The witches market is a fascinating strip where you can purchase anything from llama fetuses, herbs, potions, tiger skins...plus your regular Sth American offerings of woven goods and food and drinks. There is no excuse for having un-shined shoes here in La Paz with shoe shine boys on every corner. They wear woollen balaclavas and are quite an intimidating vision at first, but the reason for this is firstly due to the toxicity of the polish, and secondly because it is considered a lowly job and the balaclavas help with anonymity and allow them to be more forward (¨really no, we do not need our dirty suede hiking boots polished thanks!¨)
Our timing was particular good for arriving in La Paz, as Bolivia was playing Argentina in the World Cup qualifier on Wednesday. So we scored some tickets and went along. Due to the altitude and a supposed disadvantage to the visiting team, games are not often played here. But Argentina and Maradona thought they would give it a go anyway. Sold out stadium, awesome seats for 25 aussie dollars and wait for it...Bolivia won 6-1 !! Unheard of, and a historic moment for this country (espceially against one of the best teams in the world) and such an exicting game to be at.
A funny thing about the game was that you can buy tickets to it at a chicken shop in the middle of the city!! Chicken is big over here, and only in Bolivia can you buy tix to the world cup qualifier at the local chicken shop!! We have had several funny restuarant experiences including a stella visit to a Morroccan restuarnt but it doesnt translate in words.
We have not yet made it inside San Pedro jail {aka Marching Powder book for those who have read it}, however we have watched the prisoners being escorted in from the plaza in front. There are police guards around the place, but there are police with riot gear everywhere in Bolivia so this does little to signify that it´s a prison (we apparently missed a riot of some sort by 5 minutes the day of the futbol). The strange thing is that San Pedro is in the very centre of the city, as opposed to the outskirts like you would expect.
As well as a very visible police presence, Bolivia is filled with political messages painted on walls and highways. Messages of new consitutions and pro-Evo (the president) colour the country. Evo is well liked here, and partly for his yes-stance on coca. The chewin of coca in Bolivia is huge and deeply rooted in their traditions for everything. It dates back 2500 BC to pre Inca times (knowledge we acquired in the Coca Musuem). Despite being used in medicine (nowadays synathectic novacaine is used) and of course Coca Cola, coca leaves help the body to take in more oxygen and are therefore a key factor in the lives pf people who live at high altitude.
At the moment, we are in Corioco which is a beautiful town, again surrounded by mountains, but here it is lush and hot and humid. Condors circle the area, flying gracefully on the thermals. We have enjoyed the pool and the sushine today after a very adventuous day yesterday where we rode bikes down the Worlds Most Dangerous Road (or ´Death Road´ if you prefer the short version). Its 64 km, mostly downhill with cliff drop offs 600+ metres. At times the road is really narrow {although, we were expecting it to be worse}. These days, there are little vehicles on this road so not as dangerous as previously where many people have died every year (crosses regularly mark the road). It was fantastic and a real adrenalin thrill to be gunning it down gravel roads through rainforest and waterfalls and sketchy trails. Lots of fun.
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