Quito and Otavalo - Ecuador. Popayan - Columbia

I left you last in Quito and it seems im falling behind in my writing as we have now crossed another border and are in Columbia...but more on that later. I want to give Ecuador the space it deserves, for it really was a beauiful country and we wish we could have stayed longer. Apparently you cant do everything, but i am still in denial of this.

Ecuador seems to be doing quite well economically in South American terms. The country is more developed and has better instrascture than Bolivia and Peru in particular. The roads are finished, and there is less litter and rubble on highways indicating a level of education and government expendition in such areas. Ecuadorians are proud of their ecological diversity and fertile landscapes which produce some of the juicest fruits and healty foods that we have eaten so far. In fact, we have given the title of ´Best Food´to Ecuador, with particular mention to their fantastic cheap breakfasts. We have also given the title of ´Fastest Drivers´ to the bus drivers as we have risked our lives around many speedy bends and turns in this country.

Of note in Ecuador, was the amount of Americans travelling here as a result of obvious political ties with the States. There was lots of students studying in the excellent Spanish schools, and retirees looking to buy property. Ecuador changed its national currency to the US dollar in about 2000, apparently with a lot of local resistence. Nonetheless, it went ahead and it is a likely reason for the American travellers. Another Americanism, was the streets and hostels and shop wordings in English. Not often, but certain words such as ´happy´and ´fast food´and general store...which we have not seen anywhere else.

So a quick rundown on our recent happenings....we spent 3 days in the capital Quito which is a nice city, entirely sprawling with buildings which we took in from the city´s cable car called TeleferiQo. Unfortunately, when we got to the top (4100m) , we were above the cloud line and it was a white out. So we got back inside the cable car and took in the urban junglle landscape on the way back down. We checked out a snake musuem which was filled with snakes mostly native to Ecuador, and we also walked around the entire Old Town section which narrow streets and a preseverd antiquated feel. Like most South American cities, the city sites and planning revolves around churches which are usually stunning exmaples of architecture blending Spanish and indigenous styles. The most striking church in Quito is called Voto Nacional and we climbed right ùp the top of this church to the bell towers (and rang the bells, not sure if you´re supposed to but who could resist!) and the basicilas towers which has grafitti and very little fencing and in other coutries would be major puclic liability. Very cool views and quite strange to have such free reign in a church.

The next day, we set off on public transport (they have a really efficient electric bus system called the Trole making it easy to get around Quito) to the Equator. At the hemispheric line (Mitad del Mundo) there is a huge monument marking the designated spot (which is actually incorrect by about 250km since the inception of the GPS system). We took photos and then skipped across to the Museo Solar Inti Nan which is now the actual equator line and a very intersting musuem. We jumped back and forth from the north to the south and were shown fasinating tricks on the line. For example, water has no centrigual force at the Equator and so it flushes straight down rather than in a circular motion. We balanced an egg on a nail head and got a certificate for it, and we also played around with out weight and balance as you apparently weigh 2.2% at the equator and have less resistence to gravity. On the actual line of 0¨00´00, its really difficulty to stop someone pulling your arms and hands apart. Also, walking in a straight line is incredibly difficult with no direct magnetic pull.

Next day we left Quito for the northern highlans and an area called Otavalo which is the largest markets in South America. Its starts to crank up early on Saturday morning and it was really quite overwhelming. The Otavalenos have steadfastly maintained their indigenous roots, and the traders and local folk wear their tradiotional dress all the time. It consists of long dark skirts for the ladies, with trimmings and delicate, frilly blouses, gold chains in the repitive neck fashion of African women, and often a floppy, folded hat. The men wear white baggy trousers with navy ponchos, and together they make a stylish and elegant impression. We had been waiting til now to buy things (well, sort of...we have definitely acquired things along the way!), so we shopped til we dropped and now have an extra bag of things to carry around. Well Jeb does anyway!

I mentioned we are changed our flights and are now spending nearly a month in Columbia, which is where we are now. Yesterday we spent all day on the bus, crossed borders (which again was really simple and we have had no problems at all so far), and ended up in the town of Popayan, Columbia last night. This town is beautiful. All the buildings are white and even inside the church is white. Due to many earthquakes, it has been mostly rebuilt and restored since 1983, making it very clean and tidy and breathable. There are no tight, polluted streets or high rise buildings, the climate is pleasant and the people are really modern. We have already started to see more black people which will continue as we go north and is a result of African slave labour in the caribbean area. We are moving on to the city of Cali this afternoon, so i better go eat some something....ciao

Cuenca and Banos - Ecuador

Cuenca is the 3rd largest city in Ecuador, and whilst we have preferred to spend time in smaller towns, this really was a nice city to visit. But at our cracking pace, we only had one day and night so we set out exploring the cobblestone streets and white buildings of this charming tidy city. We walked along the river and had a great Middle Eastern meal (how very un-Sth American!), before taking another night bus to the town of Banos. With a bus change at 4am in the morning, and arriving about 6am, we were a little spaced out and went to sleep before tackling this town of adventure.


Banos is at the foot of an active volcano and a waterfall that is visible throughout the whole town. The word Banos means baths (some people may remember this from our toilet sign at home!) and at the base of the waterfall there are thermal baths. Unintentionally arriving on a weekend and also Mothers Day, the town was really busy and we subsequently avoided the very crowded baths. Instead, we rented bikes and set of for a full day of biking (67km) on the spectacular road to Puyo that leads into the gateway of the upper Amazon Basin. Accompanied by endless buses and Chevrolet trucks filled with extended families enjoying the Sunday ride, we passed by many waterfalls, cable cars and through pitch black tunnels on this highway ride. Which i must say, is not all downhill as claimed...for the record, there are alot of flat parts and uphill too! Add to this, the hardest seats you have ever sat on...ouch! But the sore bum was very worth it as we passed through local communities selling the freshest of fruits and sugarcane, and outdoors resturants selling bbq corn on the cob with cheese (a common food here) whilst watching the Amazon river tributaries meet and bulge at the Rio Negro (Black River). And dont forget folks, its the tropics and to complete the day, we got absolutely drenched in an Amazonian downpour with only 5km left to our destination! Cerveza (beer) well deserved, we boarded the next bus back to Banos with our bikes underneath, and slept well that night.

But this town is ¨Full Action¨...or so we were told by our hostel/tour operator. And so 9am the next morning we were getting kitted up with wetsuits, harnesses, helmets etc and off we went for a half day of canoning down 5 waterfalls. The base of the waterfall was in a fruit orchid and the setting was serene and dense and hidden. Abseiling down waterfalls and also sliding down some parts like a rough slippery dip was great fun, really enjoyable day. But its FULL ACTION folks, so next up was Swing Jumping...similar to bungee but with a big circular swing motion afterwards. Having bungee jumped once in my life, i did not feel the need to do it again, so Jeb was on his own here. The bridge is a regular bridge with cars that drive along it and no permanent jump set up. Within minutes, there were all the necessary ropes and cords and harnesses and jump platforms. At a height of 80 metres and a flowing river below, Jeb had the look of excitement in his eyes and did not hesitate at the countdown. Pure adrenalin, he loved it.

All actioned out, we left Banos for Quito, the capital of Ecuador which is where we are now. We were originally flying out of Quito to Santiago, Chile and from there, fly back to Sydney. However on our travels, we have met so many people people who have told us how awesome Columbia is and also how safe it is now. So we have adjusted things and are no longer flying out of Quito, and instead Bogota on the 15th June. More on Quito and Ecuador later...im hogging the hostel computer.

Mancora, Peru and Vilcabamba, Ecuador

Mancora is small beach town set amongst some fairly arid scenery. The desert landscape on the bus trip here was stark and arriving in Mancora was a relief to see that there is actually a beautiful blue water coastline here. The surk break is small but perhaps it was just during our stay. Restuarants and bars line an area of the beach and whilst this is a tourist destination for gringos and Peruvians alike and there is lots of development in the works, it is still a small town with alot of space to yourself. We stayed at a very cool hostel at the far end of the town which had its on private beach and bamboo cabanas right on the sand. You take motorised scooter taxis to get around, in between lazy about at the beach in the perfect sunny weather. Sacrificing the hostel pet for a travellers feast, we enjoyed a pig on the spit, complete with salads, rum punch, good company and special memories. And then we changed countries again.

Taking another overnight bus (although this time, not quite so comfortable and with some unexpected lag time in between), we took off for Ecuador crossing the border after midnight. As we approach the equator, a few things have become noticeable. The promotion of biodiversity in both plants and animals, and green lush humid scenery is now all around us. And then of course, the feeling of getting asconded by mosquitos. Our first point of call in Ecuador is the very chilled out town Vilcabamba. The valley here is renowned for its water source which is really high in magnesium and other minerals and is said to responsible for the longevity of its residents who often live beyond 100 years. We hiked today to find the source called Agua de Hierro, however a big flood in the recent rainy season has washed away the end of the trail and we were not able to access it. But no worries, as we have been staying in a Ecolodge here which comes complete with a jacuzzi with natural herbs, a steam room filled with pine, sauna, swimming pool, and hammocks and needless to say, we are chilling out and increasing our lifespan at the same time! And all for the very reasonable backpacker price of $9 US a night. We have also been enjoying some other thrills here like homemade Snake Juice which is 80% alcohol and distilled in a jar with a venomous snake. You drink it like Tequila with lime and salt...i was hesitant (Jeb obviously was not..."snakes and alcohol together!!!") but it really was ok and we are still alive.
Another good point to Ecuador so far is the existence of brown bread! For our whole trip, we have only been getting white bread filled with air, so im very happy about this. Sometimes, its the small things...