Preparing ourselves for home, we have spent the last 5 days in Santiago Chile where there are hardly any street sellers or Chiclets kids, there are road rules that people obey, and there is a movement and lifestyle similar to that of any modern European city. Sensing our immenient departure and a need to wind down, we have done very little in Santiago. It has rained everyday and the sky remains a constant light grey providing little inspiration to venture outside and spend money which we no longer have. The city reminds me a little of Vancouver in the winter, with a consistently cold temperature, snow capped moutains in the background, and a flair for dark, unobtrusive jackets and clothing. Unfortunatly though, there is not a coffee shop on every corner as in Canada, and finding a cup of anything other than Nescafe is a hard feat. Spending a month in Columbia and developing a addiction to great coffee has reinforced the fact that we changed countries and cultures. So if you cant get good coffee, why not just drink great wine?!!
Chile produces some excellent wine which is available for super cheap. A good bottle is under $5 in the supermarket and so we have sampled many and have not found a bad one yet. A grape now unique to Chile due to insect wipeouts in other places, is called the Camanere and we have enjoyed this alot. We have also indulged inmany pisco sours and have learnt how to make them so watch out for a taste sensation at our palce when we get back. As well as drink lots of beverages here, we have walked around the city and checked out the plazas, shopping malls, parks and clean buildings that make this city function. We have watched movies, slept in, cooked great dinners, and enjoyed being almost the only guests in a really cool, homely hostel. We wanted to go snowboarding but we are just a little too early for the base to be decent, but its snowing now and its certainly cold enough.
But now its all over, and we are getting on a plane in a couple of hours. I think when the time comes to go home, you are often ready for it because you´ve told yourself thats the way it is. I cant say im fully ready to come home but i am looking forward to eating food with spice in it again (a serious lack of flavour in most Sth American countries and so the first thing we will probably devour at home is a thai green curry with extra chilli. Ooohh so Ausrtalian!). It will also be unsual to not have to carry toilet paper around with you, and to be able to throw it down the bowl instead of a bin next to the toilet (SA plumbing cant handle paper). I will be happy not to have hours travellin on buses or planes for awhile, and it will be cool not to see statues of Jesus on the dashboard of a bus, and also cool to see a bus or garbage truck without flashing decorative lights or pansy music blasting from it. I will however miss the continuous food sellers who get on anywhere and sell you drinks, hot food, chips, anything! It will be a pain to have to wait for a bus at a bus stop instead of just hailing one from anywhere along the road. There are lots of thing i will miss, and we will certainly be back to this land of diversity and culture, friendly people and good times. But for now, we must say adios and head to the airport. Really, i have to go right now, like 10 minutes ago...
Saturday, June 20, 2009
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
Bogota - Columbia
Topping off our Columbian adventures, we spent 4 nights in the capital city, Bogota. Once considered an dangerous place and somewhere to avoid, Bogota has cleaned up its act in recent times, and with police presence everywhere, it feels safe, clean and a cool place to be. Its a big modern metropolis with efficient transport, business and historic districts, and really intersting musuems.
We stayed in the old town area called La Candelaria which used to be the centre of Bogota. The area around the Plaza de Bolivar contains graceful architecture of the National Congress, the Presidents House, mayors office, judicial and goverment buildings, neoclassical cathedrals and charming restuarnts serving traditional dishes such as ajiaco which is a delicious chicken stew with corn, capers and 3 types of potato. Another typical Columbian dish is hot chocolate served with a wedge of cheese which i struggle to understand. The idea is that the cheese offsets the sweetness in the chocolate but i´ll take my cheese and chocolate seperately gracias!
As mentioned, Bogota has some world class musuems and we visited the Museo del Oro (Gold Musuem) which features more than 34000 pieces of goldworks from Hispanic cultures in Columbia. Delicate, intricate, and restored with dazzling shine, this was a unique and impressive musuem. Equally unique and impressive, yet for entirely different reasons, was the Museo Historico Policia which details the Columbian police force through the years, including a sizable section on the life and possessions of drug cartel boss and policitican Pablo Esacabar. This musuem is filled with guns, uniforms and police artifacts, and we were guided around by a young ancillary member of the force who explained to us that military service is compulsary for 1 year for Columbian men, and that opportunities are good for those who wish to continue on. This helped to explain the huge police presence of young kids with batons and guns and braces on their teeths, in various policing roles such as musuem guide, traffic police, etc.
We also visited the Botero Musuem, and again enjoyed the works of this prolific Columbian artist who paints, draws and scuplts fat people, fruits and flowers. The musuem is also home to lots of Columbian modern art, plus works by Salvador Dali, Picassio, Renoir and Monet. But of course it wasnt all high culture for us in this happening city! We checked out some reggae, jazz, and live latino bars and resturants, and spent a few nights seeing the sunrise at the hostel and missing breakfast/lunch the next day. We were thankful to roll out of bed one day to find a huge Columbian food exhibition taking place in the plaza, with tonnes of stalls selling things like BBQ meats (cooked on hot stones, directly on the plaza ground), weird juices, sweets, fruits, breads and meats, and with schoool students and music groups in traditional costumes dancing and singing all day, we were suitably entertained and well feed.
We also visited Columbias number 1 tourist attraction - the salt cathedral at Zipaquira, which is about 2 hours outside Bogota. This is a huge labyrinth of underground chapels and tunnels built within the old section of the salt mines. They still mine there today, although in a different area. As you descend into the depleted area, the salt walls are mostly smoothed over and contain carved out crosses everywhere with marble blocks for pray and reference to the stations of the cross. The finale is the cathedral which is massive and eeringly beautiful. The tour was in Spanish so my understanding of the history is a little limited and im unsure if they actually hold mass in there now, or if its just a tourist attraction. Nonetheless, is was a visually fasinating sight.
Jeb tells me i have been typing away for ages, so thats enough out of me for now except to say that we arrived safely in Chile despite some airport hiccups involving customs and seeds inside an Ecuadorian musical instrument. At 4am in the morning, we were lucky enough to escape a $800 US fine, and reminded ourself that we are now travelling in the world of planes and not buses, and searches exist and are thorough. Anyways, more on Chile later.
We stayed in the old town area called La Candelaria which used to be the centre of Bogota. The area around the Plaza de Bolivar contains graceful architecture of the National Congress, the Presidents House, mayors office, judicial and goverment buildings, neoclassical cathedrals and charming restuarnts serving traditional dishes such as ajiaco which is a delicious chicken stew with corn, capers and 3 types of potato. Another typical Columbian dish is hot chocolate served with a wedge of cheese which i struggle to understand. The idea is that the cheese offsets the sweetness in the chocolate but i´ll take my cheese and chocolate seperately gracias!
As mentioned, Bogota has some world class musuems and we visited the Museo del Oro (Gold Musuem) which features more than 34000 pieces of goldworks from Hispanic cultures in Columbia. Delicate, intricate, and restored with dazzling shine, this was a unique and impressive musuem. Equally unique and impressive, yet for entirely different reasons, was the Museo Historico Policia which details the Columbian police force through the years, including a sizable section on the life and possessions of drug cartel boss and policitican Pablo Esacabar. This musuem is filled with guns, uniforms and police artifacts, and we were guided around by a young ancillary member of the force who explained to us that military service is compulsary for 1 year for Columbian men, and that opportunities are good for those who wish to continue on. This helped to explain the huge police presence of young kids with batons and guns and braces on their teeths, in various policing roles such as musuem guide, traffic police, etc.
We also visited the Botero Musuem, and again enjoyed the works of this prolific Columbian artist who paints, draws and scuplts fat people, fruits and flowers. The musuem is also home to lots of Columbian modern art, plus works by Salvador Dali, Picassio, Renoir and Monet. But of course it wasnt all high culture for us in this happening city! We checked out some reggae, jazz, and live latino bars and resturants, and spent a few nights seeing the sunrise at the hostel and missing breakfast/lunch the next day. We were thankful to roll out of bed one day to find a huge Columbian food exhibition taking place in the plaza, with tonnes of stalls selling things like BBQ meats (cooked on hot stones, directly on the plaza ground), weird juices, sweets, fruits, breads and meats, and with schoool students and music groups in traditional costumes dancing and singing all day, we were suitably entertained and well feed.
We also visited Columbias number 1 tourist attraction - the salt cathedral at Zipaquira, which is about 2 hours outside Bogota. This is a huge labyrinth of underground chapels and tunnels built within the old section of the salt mines. They still mine there today, although in a different area. As you descend into the depleted area, the salt walls are mostly smoothed over and contain carved out crosses everywhere with marble blocks for pray and reference to the stations of the cross. The finale is the cathedral which is massive and eeringly beautiful. The tour was in Spanish so my understanding of the history is a little limited and im unsure if they actually hold mass in there now, or if its just a tourist attraction. Nonetheless, is was a visually fasinating sight.
Jeb tells me i have been typing away for ages, so thats enough out of me for now except to say that we arrived safely in Chile despite some airport hiccups involving customs and seeds inside an Ecuadorian musical instrument. At 4am in the morning, we were lucky enough to escape a $800 US fine, and reminded ourself that we are now travelling in the world of planes and not buses, and searches exist and are thorough. Anyways, more on Chile later.
Thursday, June 11, 2009
Parque Tayrona, and Villa de Leyva - Columbia
Parque Tayrona is a national park at the north point of Columbia, encompassing ocean and land. After scuba diving in one small area, we set off to spend a couple of nights in the national park which is accessed via 2 local buses and a near 2 hour hike to the campsite after paying the park fees. Dealing with intense humidity and an outraegous amount of Deet to protect from mosquitoes and midgie bites, plus the added bonus of carrying kilos of water and supplies, we were hoping this would be worthy adenture. It proceeded to surpass our expectations.
The jungle trails were home to scores of big blue crabs on the route in, and we saw a huge yellowish green snake scramble across the forest floor in front of us. Reaching the coast, palm trees towered all around and the deep bays were accompanied with massive boulders making the scene beautifully picturesque. It really was like stepping on the set off a film clip, something like Castaway with Tom Hanks maybe but with more class.
The days were spent tanning and drinking rum with our lovely Irish amiga Jules who we´ve travelled with for the last few weeks. We slept in hammocks in an open cabana perched on the top of a hill, looking straight out to the ocean and feeling the wind blow us to sleep. The seas were quite rough on the second night and it was a little cold but damp with so much humidity. Probably not the kind of bed you would want for more than a couple of nights, but a cool experience.
Trudging back to civilasation, Jeb and i needed to make our way south as our trip is nearing an end and we apparently have flights to catch. Reality check?!! But no stress yet, we hit the highway in another overnight bus (or 3 actually), and eventually made it to the sweepìng countryside and colonial town of Villa De Leyva. We stayed in a great guesthouse with backyards and fireplaces and more hammocks, and enjoyed the peacfulness. Yesterday we took bikes out for the day and explored the region including the El Fossil which is a reasonably complete fossil of a 120 million year old marine reptile called the Kronosaurus. Next we visited the Muisa Observatory (El Infiernito) which dates from the early centuries and is series of phallic looking structures (actually to be clear, they were simply big stone penises, no confusion there). There are 30 or so of them, spread out around the park about 9m apart, and were used by the indigeous people to tell the seasons. Cruising along on our bikes, we passed a cool Terracotta house, but with a huge storm beginning to drop down on us, we hightailed it back to town only to get caught in the downpour. We got soaked to the bone, but thankfully managed to dry off by the fireplace all night. A remarkable feat itself seeing the wood was soaked, but that has never stopped Jeb before. With many beers for a new friend in the hostels birthday and a late start this morning, we unfortunately didnt get to fully explore the architecture and cobbletsone quaintness that this place has to offer. 4 hours on the bus today and a broken down taxi, puts us in Bogota right now, the capital of Columbia and our last destination in this country before a flight to Chile in 4 days time.
The jungle trails were home to scores of big blue crabs on the route in, and we saw a huge yellowish green snake scramble across the forest floor in front of us. Reaching the coast, palm trees towered all around and the deep bays were accompanied with massive boulders making the scene beautifully picturesque. It really was like stepping on the set off a film clip, something like Castaway with Tom Hanks maybe but with more class.
The days were spent tanning and drinking rum with our lovely Irish amiga Jules who we´ve travelled with for the last few weeks. We slept in hammocks in an open cabana perched on the top of a hill, looking straight out to the ocean and feeling the wind blow us to sleep. The seas were quite rough on the second night and it was a little cold but damp with so much humidity. Probably not the kind of bed you would want for more than a couple of nights, but a cool experience.
Trudging back to civilasation, Jeb and i needed to make our way south as our trip is nearing an end and we apparently have flights to catch. Reality check?!! But no stress yet, we hit the highway in another overnight bus (or 3 actually), and eventually made it to the sweepìng countryside and colonial town of Villa De Leyva. We stayed in a great guesthouse with backyards and fireplaces and more hammocks, and enjoyed the peacfulness. Yesterday we took bikes out for the day and explored the region including the El Fossil which is a reasonably complete fossil of a 120 million year old marine reptile called the Kronosaurus. Next we visited the Muisa Observatory (El Infiernito) which dates from the early centuries and is series of phallic looking structures (actually to be clear, they were simply big stone penises, no confusion there). There are 30 or so of them, spread out around the park about 9m apart, and were used by the indigeous people to tell the seasons. Cruising along on our bikes, we passed a cool Terracotta house, but with a huge storm beginning to drop down on us, we hightailed it back to town only to get caught in the downpour. We got soaked to the bone, but thankfully managed to dry off by the fireplace all night. A remarkable feat itself seeing the wood was soaked, but that has never stopped Jeb before. With many beers for a new friend in the hostels birthday and a late start this morning, we unfortunately didnt get to fully explore the architecture and cobbletsone quaintness that this place has to offer. 4 hours on the bus today and a broken down taxi, puts us in Bogota right now, the capital of Columbia and our last destination in this country before a flight to Chile in 4 days time.
Thursday, June 4, 2009
Taganga - Columbia
So now we are really on holidays! After months of hiking up mountains, down canyons, day long bike rides, and moving places every 2-3 days, we have arrived at the beach town of Taganga, where the hardest decisions we face are what unknown fruits we will combine in our juices. The sun beams down everyday, the water is torquise and the alcohol is flowing. Further to the several juices everyday, we have been enjoying small cups of tinto (sweetened black coffee) in the afternoons served directly to you on the beach, plus many cold showers (there is only one tap in the shower anyway, and is more just like a pipe sticking out of the wall than a shower head - this is the norm in northern columbia, and also unfortunately in other parts of Sth America where it is not so sweltering hot and not so well received). We have also been lazying about on a yellow lilo, floating about in the water and getting a nice tan too. Oh and of course, eating the freshest of fish straight from the ocean, and its delicious.
Today we stepped out of this lazy lifestyle that we are getting rather used to, and went snorkelling and scuba diving. Neither Jeb or i have dived before so we did what they call a mini course which consists of 2 dives at a maximum depth of 12m. Once we became adjusted to the apparatus and the concept of breathing underwater, we had a fantastic time checking out the stunning coral reefs, superbly coloured fish, octopus, and marine life. It astounding to think that so much of this planet is underwater and unexplored. It really is an amzing world of its own down there.
Tommorrow we are heading back to Santa Marta (which is also a beachside town, 20 mins away with more faciltities and people but little to do) and from there, we will take a bus and jeep into the national park of Tayrona where we will probably do much of the same above, with the added bonus of sleeping in hammocks for a couple of days. Ahhhh....
Today we stepped out of this lazy lifestyle that we are getting rather used to, and went snorkelling and scuba diving. Neither Jeb or i have dived before so we did what they call a mini course which consists of 2 dives at a maximum depth of 12m. Once we became adjusted to the apparatus and the concept of breathing underwater, we had a fantastic time checking out the stunning coral reefs, superbly coloured fish, octopus, and marine life. It astounding to think that so much of this planet is underwater and unexplored. It really is an amzing world of its own down there.
Tommorrow we are heading back to Santa Marta (which is also a beachside town, 20 mins away with more faciltities and people but little to do) and from there, we will take a bus and jeep into the national park of Tayrona where we will probably do much of the same above, with the added bonus of sleeping in hammocks for a couple of days. Ahhhh....
Friday, May 29, 2009
Cartagena - Columbia
Colonial balconies spilling with colourful bouganvillas and sunny arctitecture, Cartagena is what they describe as the jewel of the Carribean. As rightly so, as it is a beautiful city which has retained true authenticity and style, not sold out by tourism. Well not yet, or at least not in some areas such as the old town where we are staying. I like that its still quite rough around the edges, which can contrast with the restored feel of the centre and especially so with the modern, fancy area with its huge designer beachfront apartments and restaurants which are increasingly springing up here. Having only seen this from the bus, we are more than happy mixing it up with the mostly black locals and making new street friends such as Jebs favourite, Mario Brother, who loves a chat on the corner at any time of the day.
Its really stinking hot and humid here as you may expect, and reminds me of a cross of places like Fiji and Vietnam, with the smells of fruit and sweat, and the oppressive heat and open local life. Speaking of fruit, we are in produce heaven here, and we buy fruit and drinks from vendors all day, every day. Fresh lime drinks, sweet strawberries and mangoes, huge avocadoes and things we dont even know. Also small sweet coffee known as tinto to give us that morning kick.
The city was very important to the Spanish as its a port town and cruically located, and therefore was prone to invasion back in the 15th century and onwards. The Spanish built a huge fort on the city edge, and walled the city with cannons which are all still in place. It has character and history and some say a sense of historical romance.
Today we had one of the most unique experiences i have ever had. We went to an active volcano and bathed in the mud inside. Its quite small, only about 35m high to climb inside, and then down a ladder into the thickest mud you can imagine. You can hardly move yourself and have to get pulled and pushed through the den by locals who massage you whilst you reap the rewards of the 51 minerals contained in the mud. There is no ground, and a bizzare feeling of weightless. Every inch of our body was covered and my skin now feels exfoliated and soft like no product could ever do. Climbing out is a challenge not to slip and you then get washed by ladies in the river (everything for tips of course). Next up, a swim and lunch on the beach, freshly caught fish, fried plaintains, coconut rice. The ocean water here is warm and only refreshing to a degree. We have taken to cooling down by drinking lots of rum which is the common carribean drink.
There is a dog fight outside right now which is rare as dogs in Sth america are everywhere but mostly quite placid and ignore you. Kinda scary sounding. Tommorrow we are travelling another 4 hours along the coast and this really will be the furthest north we will go for a week of lazing about on the beach.
Its really stinking hot and humid here as you may expect, and reminds me of a cross of places like Fiji and Vietnam, with the smells of fruit and sweat, and the oppressive heat and open local life. Speaking of fruit, we are in produce heaven here, and we buy fruit and drinks from vendors all day, every day. Fresh lime drinks, sweet strawberries and mangoes, huge avocadoes and things we dont even know. Also small sweet coffee known as tinto to give us that morning kick.
The city was very important to the Spanish as its a port town and cruically located, and therefore was prone to invasion back in the 15th century and onwards. The Spanish built a huge fort on the city edge, and walled the city with cannons which are all still in place. It has character and history and some say a sense of historical romance.
Today we had one of the most unique experiences i have ever had. We went to an active volcano and bathed in the mud inside. Its quite small, only about 35m high to climb inside, and then down a ladder into the thickest mud you can imagine. You can hardly move yourself and have to get pulled and pushed through the den by locals who massage you whilst you reap the rewards of the 51 minerals contained in the mud. There is no ground, and a bizzare feeling of weightless. Every inch of our body was covered and my skin now feels exfoliated and soft like no product could ever do. Climbing out is a challenge not to slip and you then get washed by ladies in the river (everything for tips of course). Next up, a swim and lunch on the beach, freshly caught fish, fried plaintains, coconut rice. The ocean water here is warm and only refreshing to a degree. We have taken to cooling down by drinking lots of rum which is the common carribean drink.
There is a dog fight outside right now which is rare as dogs in Sth america are everywhere but mostly quite placid and ignore you. Kinda scary sounding. Tommorrow we are travelling another 4 hours along the coast and this really will be the furthest north we will go for a week of lazing about on the beach.
Tuesday, May 26, 2009
Medellin - Columbia
Medellin could be anywhere in the world. Its a big livable city, really really clean, modern, an excellent Metro line running through the city, wide roads, garbage bins, big supermarkets, nice restuarants. Not quite what you expect from Columbia.
Being here on a weekend, we hit the Zona Rosa area which is the nightlife district centred around a few blocks. There are heaps of big, open bars with funky comfortable styling, nice furniture, 3 for 1 cocktails and a happy vibrancy of locals. It reminded me of several cool Sydney areas mixed together, but with a style all of its own.
With mild hangovers the next day, we made our way into the city centre to check out the Botero sculptures in the plaza and the Musuem. Fernando Botero is a internationally renowned, Medellin- born sculptor and painter, a figurative artist who depicts people and objects with exaggerated proportions. Everything is fat and bulbous and often comical but with precision and colour and flair. His sculptures are huge and line the plaza, and his paintings use oils, canvas, and pencil and with nearly 100 donations to the mususem, fill a complete floor.
Yesterday was a public holiday here, not sure what for but everything was closed and we did nothing except drink more cocktails and play cards. But we made up for it today and went paragliding! Soaring through the sky like a bird, we had amazing views of the city. Medellin is a particularly popular place for gliding due to the thermal currents here, and we had perfect flying weather. It was really relaxing and peaceful, and a great experience.
Tonitgh we are taking an overnight bus to Cartagena. Its only 13 hours and will take us almost as far north as we are going. I have to say though, we are getting a little over bus travel, and hopefully we will sleep most of the way.
Being here on a weekend, we hit the Zona Rosa area which is the nightlife district centred around a few blocks. There are heaps of big, open bars with funky comfortable styling, nice furniture, 3 for 1 cocktails and a happy vibrancy of locals. It reminded me of several cool Sydney areas mixed together, but with a style all of its own.
With mild hangovers the next day, we made our way into the city centre to check out the Botero sculptures in the plaza and the Musuem. Fernando Botero is a internationally renowned, Medellin- born sculptor and painter, a figurative artist who depicts people and objects with exaggerated proportions. Everything is fat and bulbous and often comical but with precision and colour and flair. His sculptures are huge and line the plaza, and his paintings use oils, canvas, and pencil and with nearly 100 donations to the mususem, fill a complete floor.
Yesterday was a public holiday here, not sure what for but everything was closed and we did nothing except drink more cocktails and play cards. But we made up for it today and went paragliding! Soaring through the sky like a bird, we had amazing views of the city. Medellin is a particularly popular place for gliding due to the thermal currents here, and we had perfect flying weather. It was really relaxing and peaceful, and a great experience.
Tonitgh we are taking an overnight bus to Cartagena. Its only 13 hours and will take us almost as far north as we are going. I have to say though, we are getting a little over bus travel, and hopefully we will sleep most of the way.
Monday, May 25, 2009
Cail and Salento - Columbia
So far we are loving Columbia. Guerilla warfare of recent years is no longer a common threat in most areas, and due to a huge amount of money spent by the government, the police presence is strong and combat ready and very visible. This has pushed the guerillas further into the jungle, making the country accessible to travellers. Army and police walk the streets everywhere in groups with weapons slung over their shoulders, making things seem safer rather than scary.
Added to this, Columbia is generally a really clean, hygienic, organised country with the friendliest people who will go out of their way to assist travellers and be helpful. The weather is hot, facilties are good and its not over-run with tourists. We are glad we changed out plans to come here.
We spent 2 nights in Cali, Columbia´s third largest city which is centred around a river and the Avenue Sexta which splits the city in half. Its a big city with big buildings, big banks, big roads. Cali is not necessarily beautiful, nor does it have many sites to check out, but its hot and sultry and vibrant and is the home to salsa music. So when in Rome/Columbia...i learnt to salsa. Sexta Ave is lined with large clubs and discoteques and salsateques and whilst Tuesday is the quiet night in town, we hit the busiest club where lots of young Columbian men and women were on the dancefloor. With a few Aguadientes under my belt (the main drink around here, it´s similar to Sambucca but not quite as potent and drunk as a shot with salt and lime), i was encourgaged on to the dancefloor with 2 Columbian guys from the hostel. We danced to salsa and also merengue which is a 2-step style dance and much easier. As they told me, everywhere dances here. This is what you do when you got out, and its the means for being social with the opposite sex. I cant say i was great at salsa, but it was a fun night til the music changed and loud techno music belted out and a crazy funny strip show thing for the ladies occured which is all apprently very common.
Whilst in Cali, we visited the Zoologica or simply Zoo, which was really well laid out and maintained in lovely grounds and featured lots of pumas and big cats, plus the whole gammet of zoo animals including even kangaroos. It was a really nice day til we reaslied we had been bitten by invisible midgies again and were now in for a few days of excricuating itchiness.
We hit the road again, heading for the Zona Cafetera region and a small town called Salento. We stayed in a great hostel on an old restored coffee plantatation and realxed for 3 days in the tranquil setting. The landscape in this region is beautiful and there are rolling green hills reminiscent of Scotland or somewhere, plus lovely farmhouses and green trees everywhere. We walked through the coffee plantation and were explained the processes involved, and also saw the many blackberry and banana plantations interwined between coffee plants. And of course we drank loads of delicious coffee which we have been lacking throughout our Sth American sojourn so far. As is often the way, the best local products get exported and until now, our caffiene addiction has been quenched by instant coffee or bad tea. So we rejoiced and drank it up.
Salento is a cool little town with a spacious main plaza with a few restuarants and bars and arty shops around it, and 1 main street. The style is colourful and like a Western saloon. The local characters in this story wear gum boots and somberos for working in the plantations. There are 2 billard bars, and also a venue for playing a game called Tejo. The game is played undercover and involves throwing a metal disk or puck along a kind of playing alley. You aim for a clay pit where there are pieces of gunpowder in the middle which explode when you hit it and is the ultimate score. For those who know our Sunday Games in the Park days, its similar to Bocci Golf, but with gunpowder and a similar amount of disregard for safety. With unspoken experience in this kind of game, the locals were suitably impressed at Jebs aim and ability to hit the gunpowder.
Just outside Salento, we set of for a hike through the Valley Cocora and witnessed the huge wax plam trees scattered throughout a stunning area of farming and hillsides. The wax palms are unique to this region and grow to about 70m and are now protected. The hike ventured out of open surrounds, and into a beautiful, lush rainforest trail and ended up at a house where we were served coffee by the owners and watched the hummingbirds flitter all around us. They are super fast birds and taking a picture was a challenge but you could get so close to them as they drank from the bird feeders filled with panela syrup water, which Columnians also substitute for sugar in coffee and a straight hot drink too. We rode back in the jeep which serves as a kinda of bus, but obviosuly with alot less seats and Jeb gladly snatched up seat on the roof making for a thrilling ride.
Off next to the town of Medellin, Pablo Escabor territory.
Added to this, Columbia is generally a really clean, hygienic, organised country with the friendliest people who will go out of their way to assist travellers and be helpful. The weather is hot, facilties are good and its not over-run with tourists. We are glad we changed out plans to come here.
We spent 2 nights in Cali, Columbia´s third largest city which is centred around a river and the Avenue Sexta which splits the city in half. Its a big city with big buildings, big banks, big roads. Cali is not necessarily beautiful, nor does it have many sites to check out, but its hot and sultry and vibrant and is the home to salsa music. So when in Rome/Columbia...i learnt to salsa. Sexta Ave is lined with large clubs and discoteques and salsateques and whilst Tuesday is the quiet night in town, we hit the busiest club where lots of young Columbian men and women were on the dancefloor. With a few Aguadientes under my belt (the main drink around here, it´s similar to Sambucca but not quite as potent and drunk as a shot with salt and lime), i was encourgaged on to the dancefloor with 2 Columbian guys from the hostel. We danced to salsa and also merengue which is a 2-step style dance and much easier. As they told me, everywhere dances here. This is what you do when you got out, and its the means for being social with the opposite sex. I cant say i was great at salsa, but it was a fun night til the music changed and loud techno music belted out and a crazy funny strip show thing for the ladies occured which is all apprently very common.
Whilst in Cali, we visited the Zoologica or simply Zoo, which was really well laid out and maintained in lovely grounds and featured lots of pumas and big cats, plus the whole gammet of zoo animals including even kangaroos. It was a really nice day til we reaslied we had been bitten by invisible midgies again and were now in for a few days of excricuating itchiness.
We hit the road again, heading for the Zona Cafetera region and a small town called Salento. We stayed in a great hostel on an old restored coffee plantatation and realxed for 3 days in the tranquil setting. The landscape in this region is beautiful and there are rolling green hills reminiscent of Scotland or somewhere, plus lovely farmhouses and green trees everywhere. We walked through the coffee plantation and were explained the processes involved, and also saw the many blackberry and banana plantations interwined between coffee plants. And of course we drank loads of delicious coffee which we have been lacking throughout our Sth American sojourn so far. As is often the way, the best local products get exported and until now, our caffiene addiction has been quenched by instant coffee or bad tea. So we rejoiced and drank it up.
Salento is a cool little town with a spacious main plaza with a few restuarants and bars and arty shops around it, and 1 main street. The style is colourful and like a Western saloon. The local characters in this story wear gum boots and somberos for working in the plantations. There are 2 billard bars, and also a venue for playing a game called Tejo. The game is played undercover and involves throwing a metal disk or puck along a kind of playing alley. You aim for a clay pit where there are pieces of gunpowder in the middle which explode when you hit it and is the ultimate score. For those who know our Sunday Games in the Park days, its similar to Bocci Golf, but with gunpowder and a similar amount of disregard for safety. With unspoken experience in this kind of game, the locals were suitably impressed at Jebs aim and ability to hit the gunpowder.
Just outside Salento, we set of for a hike through the Valley Cocora and witnessed the huge wax plam trees scattered throughout a stunning area of farming and hillsides. The wax palms are unique to this region and grow to about 70m and are now protected. The hike ventured out of open surrounds, and into a beautiful, lush rainforest trail and ended up at a house where we were served coffee by the owners and watched the hummingbirds flitter all around us. They are super fast birds and taking a picture was a challenge but you could get so close to them as they drank from the bird feeders filled with panela syrup water, which Columnians also substitute for sugar in coffee and a straight hot drink too. We rode back in the jeep which serves as a kinda of bus, but obviosuly with alot less seats and Jeb gladly snatched up seat on the roof making for a thrilling ride.
Off next to the town of Medellin, Pablo Escabor territory.
Monday, May 18, 2009
Quito and Otavalo - Ecuador. Popayan - Columbia
I left you last in Quito and it seems im falling behind in my writing as we have now crossed another border and are in Columbia...but more on that later. I want to give Ecuador the space it deserves, for it really was a beauiful country and we wish we could have stayed longer. Apparently you cant do everything, but i am still in denial of this.
Ecuador seems to be doing quite well economically in South American terms. The country is more developed and has better instrascture than Bolivia and Peru in particular. The roads are finished, and there is less litter and rubble on highways indicating a level of education and government expendition in such areas. Ecuadorians are proud of their ecological diversity and fertile landscapes which produce some of the juicest fruits and healty foods that we have eaten so far. In fact, we have given the title of ´Best Food´to Ecuador, with particular mention to their fantastic cheap breakfasts. We have also given the title of ´Fastest Drivers´ to the bus drivers as we have risked our lives around many speedy bends and turns in this country.
Of note in Ecuador, was the amount of Americans travelling here as a result of obvious political ties with the States. There was lots of students studying in the excellent Spanish schools, and retirees looking to buy property. Ecuador changed its national currency to the US dollar in about 2000, apparently with a lot of local resistence. Nonetheless, it went ahead and it is a likely reason for the American travellers. Another Americanism, was the streets and hostels and shop wordings in English. Not often, but certain words such as ´happy´and ´fast food´and general store...which we have not seen anywhere else.
So a quick rundown on our recent happenings....we spent 3 days in the capital Quito which is a nice city, entirely sprawling with buildings which we took in from the city´s cable car called TeleferiQo. Unfortunately, when we got to the top (4100m) , we were above the cloud line and it was a white out. So we got back inside the cable car and took in the urban junglle landscape on the way back down. We checked out a snake musuem which was filled with snakes mostly native to Ecuador, and we also walked around the entire Old Town section which narrow streets and a preseverd antiquated feel. Like most South American cities, the city sites and planning revolves around churches which are usually stunning exmaples of architecture blending Spanish and indigenous styles. The most striking church in Quito is called Voto Nacional and we climbed right ùp the top of this church to the bell towers (and rang the bells, not sure if you´re supposed to but who could resist!) and the basicilas towers which has grafitti and very little fencing and in other coutries would be major puclic liability. Very cool views and quite strange to have such free reign in a church.
The next day, we set off on public transport (they have a really efficient electric bus system called the Trole making it easy to get around Quito) to the Equator. At the hemispheric line (Mitad del Mundo) there is a huge monument marking the designated spot (which is actually incorrect by about 250km since the inception of the GPS system). We took photos and then skipped across to the Museo Solar Inti Nan which is now the actual equator line and a very intersting musuem. We jumped back and forth from the north to the south and were shown fasinating tricks on the line. For example, water has no centrigual force at the Equator and so it flushes straight down rather than in a circular motion. We balanced an egg on a nail head and got a certificate for it, and we also played around with out weight and balance as you apparently weigh 2.2% at the equator and have less resistence to gravity. On the actual line of 0¨00´00, its really difficulty to stop someone pulling your arms and hands apart. Also, walking in a straight line is incredibly difficult with no direct magnetic pull.
Next day we left Quito for the northern highlans and an area called Otavalo which is the largest markets in South America. Its starts to crank up early on Saturday morning and it was really quite overwhelming. The Otavalenos have steadfastly maintained their indigenous roots, and the traders and local folk wear their tradiotional dress all the time. It consists of long dark skirts for the ladies, with trimmings and delicate, frilly blouses, gold chains in the repitive neck fashion of African women, and often a floppy, folded hat. The men wear white baggy trousers with navy ponchos, and together they make a stylish and elegant impression. We had been waiting til now to buy things (well, sort of...we have definitely acquired things along the way!), so we shopped til we dropped and now have an extra bag of things to carry around. Well Jeb does anyway!
I mentioned we are changed our flights and are now spending nearly a month in Columbia, which is where we are now. Yesterday we spent all day on the bus, crossed borders (which again was really simple and we have had no problems at all so far), and ended up in the town of Popayan, Columbia last night. This town is beautiful. All the buildings are white and even inside the church is white. Due to many earthquakes, it has been mostly rebuilt and restored since 1983, making it very clean and tidy and breathable. There are no tight, polluted streets or high rise buildings, the climate is pleasant and the people are really modern. We have already started to see more black people which will continue as we go north and is a result of African slave labour in the caribbean area. We are moving on to the city of Cali this afternoon, so i better go eat some something....ciao
Ecuador seems to be doing quite well economically in South American terms. The country is more developed and has better instrascture than Bolivia and Peru in particular. The roads are finished, and there is less litter and rubble on highways indicating a level of education and government expendition in such areas. Ecuadorians are proud of their ecological diversity and fertile landscapes which produce some of the juicest fruits and healty foods that we have eaten so far. In fact, we have given the title of ´Best Food´to Ecuador, with particular mention to their fantastic cheap breakfasts. We have also given the title of ´Fastest Drivers´ to the bus drivers as we have risked our lives around many speedy bends and turns in this country.
Of note in Ecuador, was the amount of Americans travelling here as a result of obvious political ties with the States. There was lots of students studying in the excellent Spanish schools, and retirees looking to buy property. Ecuador changed its national currency to the US dollar in about 2000, apparently with a lot of local resistence. Nonetheless, it went ahead and it is a likely reason for the American travellers. Another Americanism, was the streets and hostels and shop wordings in English. Not often, but certain words such as ´happy´and ´fast food´and general store...which we have not seen anywhere else.
So a quick rundown on our recent happenings....we spent 3 days in the capital Quito which is a nice city, entirely sprawling with buildings which we took in from the city´s cable car called TeleferiQo. Unfortunately, when we got to the top (4100m) , we were above the cloud line and it was a white out. So we got back inside the cable car and took in the urban junglle landscape on the way back down. We checked out a snake musuem which was filled with snakes mostly native to Ecuador, and we also walked around the entire Old Town section which narrow streets and a preseverd antiquated feel. Like most South American cities, the city sites and planning revolves around churches which are usually stunning exmaples of architecture blending Spanish and indigenous styles. The most striking church in Quito is called Voto Nacional and we climbed right ùp the top of this church to the bell towers (and rang the bells, not sure if you´re supposed to but who could resist!) and the basicilas towers which has grafitti and very little fencing and in other coutries would be major puclic liability. Very cool views and quite strange to have such free reign in a church.
The next day, we set off on public transport (they have a really efficient electric bus system called the Trole making it easy to get around Quito) to the Equator. At the hemispheric line (Mitad del Mundo) there is a huge monument marking the designated spot (which is actually incorrect by about 250km since the inception of the GPS system). We took photos and then skipped across to the Museo Solar Inti Nan which is now the actual equator line and a very intersting musuem. We jumped back and forth from the north to the south and were shown fasinating tricks on the line. For example, water has no centrigual force at the Equator and so it flushes straight down rather than in a circular motion. We balanced an egg on a nail head and got a certificate for it, and we also played around with out weight and balance as you apparently weigh 2.2% at the equator and have less resistence to gravity. On the actual line of 0¨00´00, its really difficulty to stop someone pulling your arms and hands apart. Also, walking in a straight line is incredibly difficult with no direct magnetic pull.
Next day we left Quito for the northern highlans and an area called Otavalo which is the largest markets in South America. Its starts to crank up early on Saturday morning and it was really quite overwhelming. The Otavalenos have steadfastly maintained their indigenous roots, and the traders and local folk wear their tradiotional dress all the time. It consists of long dark skirts for the ladies, with trimmings and delicate, frilly blouses, gold chains in the repitive neck fashion of African women, and often a floppy, folded hat. The men wear white baggy trousers with navy ponchos, and together they make a stylish and elegant impression. We had been waiting til now to buy things (well, sort of...we have definitely acquired things along the way!), so we shopped til we dropped and now have an extra bag of things to carry around. Well Jeb does anyway!
I mentioned we are changed our flights and are now spending nearly a month in Columbia, which is where we are now. Yesterday we spent all day on the bus, crossed borders (which again was really simple and we have had no problems at all so far), and ended up in the town of Popayan, Columbia last night. This town is beautiful. All the buildings are white and even inside the church is white. Due to many earthquakes, it has been mostly rebuilt and restored since 1983, making it very clean and tidy and breathable. There are no tight, polluted streets or high rise buildings, the climate is pleasant and the people are really modern. We have already started to see more black people which will continue as we go north and is a result of African slave labour in the caribbean area. We are moving on to the city of Cali this afternoon, so i better go eat some something....ciao
Thursday, May 14, 2009
Cuenca and Banos - Ecuador
Cuenca is the 3rd largest city in Ecuador, and whilst we have preferred to spend time in smaller towns, this really was a nice city to visit. But at our cracking pace, we only had one day and night so we set out exploring the cobblestone streets and white buildings of this charming tidy city. We walked along the river and had a great Middle Eastern meal (how very un-Sth American!), before taking another night bus to the town of Banos. With a bus change at 4am in the morning, and arriving about 6am, we were a little spaced out and went to sleep before tackling this town of adventure.
Banos is at the foot of an active volcano and a waterfall that is visible throughout the whole town. The word Banos means baths (some people may remember this from our toilet sign at home!) and at the base of the waterfall there are thermal baths. Unintentionally arriving on a weekend and also Mothers Day, the town was really busy and we subsequently avoided the very crowded baths. Instead, we rented bikes and set of for a full day of biking (67km) on the spectacular road to Puyo that leads into the gateway of the upper Amazon Basin. Accompanied by endless buses and Chevrolet trucks filled with extended families enjoying the Sunday ride, we passed by many waterfalls, cable cars and through pitch black tunnels on this highway ride. Which i must say, is not all downhill as claimed...for the record, there are alot of flat parts and uphill too! Add to this, the hardest seats you have ever sat on...ouch! But the sore bum was very worth it as we passed through local communities selling the freshest of fruits and sugarcane, and outdoors resturants selling bbq corn on the cob with cheese (a common food here) whilst watching the Amazon river tributaries meet and bulge at the Rio Negro (Black River). And dont forget folks, its the tropics and to complete the day, we got absolutely drenched in an Amazonian downpour with only 5km left to our destination! Cerveza (beer) well deserved, we boarded the next bus back to Banos with our bikes underneath, and slept well that night.
But this town is ¨Full Action¨...or so we were told by our hostel/tour operator. And so 9am the next morning we were getting kitted up with wetsuits, harnesses, helmets etc and off we went for a half day of canoning down 5 waterfalls. The base of the waterfall was in a fruit orchid and the setting was serene and dense and hidden. Abseiling down waterfalls and also sliding down some parts like a rough slippery dip was great fun, really enjoyable day. But its FULL ACTION folks, so next up was Swing Jumping...similar to bungee but with a big circular swing motion afterwards. Having bungee jumped once in my life, i did not feel the need to do it again, so Jeb was on his own here. The bridge is a regular bridge with cars that drive along it and no permanent jump set up. Within minutes, there were all the necessary ropes and cords and harnesses and jump platforms. At a height of 80 metres and a flowing river below, Jeb had the look of excitement in his eyes and did not hesitate at the countdown. Pure adrenalin, he loved it.
All actioned out, we left Banos for Quito, the capital of Ecuador which is where we are now. We were originally flying out of Quito to Santiago, Chile and from there, fly back to Sydney. However on our travels, we have met so many people people who have told us how awesome Columbia is and also how safe it is now. So we have adjusted things and are no longer flying out of Quito, and instead Bogota on the 15th June. More on Quito and Ecuador later...im hogging the hostel computer.
Banos is at the foot of an active volcano and a waterfall that is visible throughout the whole town. The word Banos means baths (some people may remember this from our toilet sign at home!) and at the base of the waterfall there are thermal baths. Unintentionally arriving on a weekend and also Mothers Day, the town was really busy and we subsequently avoided the very crowded baths. Instead, we rented bikes and set of for a full day of biking (67km) on the spectacular road to Puyo that leads into the gateway of the upper Amazon Basin. Accompanied by endless buses and Chevrolet trucks filled with extended families enjoying the Sunday ride, we passed by many waterfalls, cable cars and through pitch black tunnels on this highway ride. Which i must say, is not all downhill as claimed...for the record, there are alot of flat parts and uphill too! Add to this, the hardest seats you have ever sat on...ouch! But the sore bum was very worth it as we passed through local communities selling the freshest of fruits and sugarcane, and outdoors resturants selling bbq corn on the cob with cheese (a common food here) whilst watching the Amazon river tributaries meet and bulge at the Rio Negro (Black River). And dont forget folks, its the tropics and to complete the day, we got absolutely drenched in an Amazonian downpour with only 5km left to our destination! Cerveza (beer) well deserved, we boarded the next bus back to Banos with our bikes underneath, and slept well that night.
But this town is ¨Full Action¨...or so we were told by our hostel/tour operator. And so 9am the next morning we were getting kitted up with wetsuits, harnesses, helmets etc and off we went for a half day of canoning down 5 waterfalls. The base of the waterfall was in a fruit orchid and the setting was serene and dense and hidden. Abseiling down waterfalls and also sliding down some parts like a rough slippery dip was great fun, really enjoyable day. But its FULL ACTION folks, so next up was Swing Jumping...similar to bungee but with a big circular swing motion afterwards. Having bungee jumped once in my life, i did not feel the need to do it again, so Jeb was on his own here. The bridge is a regular bridge with cars that drive along it and no permanent jump set up. Within minutes, there were all the necessary ropes and cords and harnesses and jump platforms. At a height of 80 metres and a flowing river below, Jeb had the look of excitement in his eyes and did not hesitate at the countdown. Pure adrenalin, he loved it.
All actioned out, we left Banos for Quito, the capital of Ecuador which is where we are now. We were originally flying out of Quito to Santiago, Chile and from there, fly back to Sydney. However on our travels, we have met so many people people who have told us how awesome Columbia is and also how safe it is now. So we have adjusted things and are no longer flying out of Quito, and instead Bogota on the 15th June. More on Quito and Ecuador later...im hogging the hostel computer.
Wednesday, May 6, 2009
Mancora, Peru and Vilcabamba, Ecuador
Mancora is small beach town set amongst some fairly arid scenery. The desert landscape on the bus trip here was stark and arriving in Mancora was a relief to see that there is actually a beautiful blue water coastline here. The surk break is small but perhaps it was just during our stay. Restuarants and bars line an area of the beach and whilst this is a tourist destination for gringos and Peruvians alike and there is lots of development in the works, it is still a small town with alot of space to yourself. We stayed at a very cool hostel at the far end of the town which had its on private beach and bamboo cabanas right on the sand. You take motorised scooter taxis to get around, in between lazy about at the beach in the perfect sunny weather. Sacrificing the hostel pet for a travellers feast, we enjoyed a pig on the spit, complete with salads, rum punch, good company and special memories. And then we changed countries again.
Taking another overnight bus (although this time, not quite so comfortable and with some unexpected lag time in between), we took off for Ecuador crossing the border after midnight. As we approach the equator, a few things have become noticeable. The promotion of biodiversity in both plants and animals, and green lush humid scenery is now all around us. And then of course, the feeling of getting asconded by mosquitos. Our first point of call in Ecuador is the very chilled out town Vilcabamba. The valley here is renowned for its water source which is really high in magnesium and other minerals and is said to responsible for the longevity of its residents who often live beyond 100 years. We hiked today to find the source called Agua de Hierro, however a big flood in the recent rainy season has washed away the end of the trail and we were not able to access it. But no worries, as we have been staying in a Ecolodge here which comes complete with a jacuzzi with natural herbs, a steam room filled with pine, sauna, swimming pool, and hammocks and needless to say, we are chilling out and increasing our lifespan at the same time! And all for the very reasonable backpacker price of $9 US a night. We have also been enjoying some other thrills here like homemade Snake Juice which is 80% alcohol and distilled in a jar with a venomous snake. You drink it like Tequila with lime and salt...i was hesitant (Jeb obviously was not..."snakes and alcohol together!!!") but it really was ok and we are still alive.
Another good point to Ecuador so far is the existence of brown bread! For our whole trip, we have only been getting white bread filled with air, so im very happy about this. Sometimes, its the small things...
Taking another overnight bus (although this time, not quite so comfortable and with some unexpected lag time in between), we took off for Ecuador crossing the border after midnight. As we approach the equator, a few things have become noticeable. The promotion of biodiversity in both plants and animals, and green lush humid scenery is now all around us. And then of course, the feeling of getting asconded by mosquitos. Our first point of call in Ecuador is the very chilled out town Vilcabamba. The valley here is renowned for its water source which is really high in magnesium and other minerals and is said to responsible for the longevity of its residents who often live beyond 100 years. We hiked today to find the source called Agua de Hierro, however a big flood in the recent rainy season has washed away the end of the trail and we were not able to access it. But no worries, as we have been staying in a Ecolodge here which comes complete with a jacuzzi with natural herbs, a steam room filled with pine, sauna, swimming pool, and hammocks and needless to say, we are chilling out and increasing our lifespan at the same time! And all for the very reasonable backpacker price of $9 US a night. We have also been enjoying some other thrills here like homemade Snake Juice which is 80% alcohol and distilled in a jar with a venomous snake. You drink it like Tequila with lime and salt...i was hesitant (Jeb obviously was not..."snakes and alcohol together!!!") but it really was ok and we are still alive.
Another good point to Ecuador so far is the existence of brown bread! For our whole trip, we have only been getting white bread filled with air, so im very happy about this. Sometimes, its the small things...
Thursday, April 30, 2009
Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, Peru
One of our highlights of this trip, and the only real thing we had booked, was the 4 day Inca Trail trek to Machu Picchu. It did not disappoint. After spending several days in Cusco checking out the Inca ruins around the city, we set off with our tour agency and 14 fellow trekkers in the early hours of Friday morning. It takes a couple of hours drive to the start of the trek where there is a bit of official paperwork required and passport stamping, and porter weigh ins. And then we were off for the first day of quite easy hiking. Spending several weeks at altitude and hiking the physically gruelling Colca Canyon had certainly improved out fitness levels and we cruised through the day passing Andean wilderness and other Inca sites along the way. The weather was perfect, warm during the day, cold at night but with an abundance of stars and a feast of food perpared for us the chaskis ...aka the fleet foot runners... who carry everything from the tents, food, chairs etc.
Day 2 was the toughest day with a mostly uphill climb covering 1200 ascending metres that day, and going through the pass known as Dead Womans Pass. It was hard going, but again, our new healthy bodies carried us through leading the group to the top. The campsite was at 4200m so it was a cold night but in such a beuatiful valley with high Andean mountains surrounding us.
Day 3 was the longest day but walking through cloud forest and several Inca sites was fantastic and we could walk at our own pace for the most part and so we often found ourselves alone to appreicate the stunning mountain scenery which at times verges on rainforest with varying degress of humidity.
Up early on the last day...4am...to join the line of other hikers waiting at the last checkpoint of the Machu Picchu National Park. On our way at 5.30am for the final hour or so hike to the famous Inca city...althougb it should be said that it is neither the biggest or the lost or the last city of the Incas. The biggest site is in the same general area although another good 5 or something days hike and not promoted well. The lost city is still lost and though to possibly be in the Amazon basin. But Machu Picchu is the most well known and were stoked to be there and so it was slightly disappointing to wake after 3 days of perfect weather hiking to discover rain and cloud and when we finally reached the Sun Gate for the ´postcard photo´ of Machu Picchu...there was nothing to see...thats right...nada. Continiuing on, we hiked down to the main centre and took a break and prayed to PachuMama ...Mother Earth in South America...for some clearance on the clouds...and it soon happened, yeah!!! and we set off to explore the site.
Machu Pichu is bigger than i expected and so perfectly preserved. The Incas really were smart guys as the buildings they made in the 15th century have withstood several earthquakes and remain today as an outstanding relic of architecture and workmanship. We learnt from our great guide David, and saw for ourselves that the Incas knew about toilets and drainages systems, we saw their lock systems and housing for the noble plus the villagers, watch towers and ceremonial rocks. It was so rewarding to be there, until the hoards of tourists started to arrive on the buses, and having been there since 6am and perhaps unfairly feeling like we deserved the place to be less packed after 4 days of hiking, we took in the site and retired down to the town of Aguas Calientes for lunch and then a soak in the hot springs with a pisco sour brought to us the pools. Ah...so well deserverd.
All up, we hiked 42km and by the 4th day, my body was feeling weary. The Inca Trail is well worn and for the most part fairly easy underfoot, however I enjoyed it more than i thought as I had a feeling there may be too many people on the trail. The Peruvian government has strictly limited numbers on the trail nowadays, however, they could do with limiting the numbers at Machu Picchu as well. But its a prime tourist attractrion and the cost of a coffee alone was an slap in the face reminder that they are raking it in here. Intersting to see what happens in the next few years as Machu Picchu is sinking at a rate of 1cm a year and there is talk of building viewing bridges around the site to prevent people walking on it. But if its cloudy like what intially happend to us, then you cant see anything til it lifts and you walk lower.
Anyways...we left very satisfyied and tired and I thoroughly enjoyed my massge the next day back in Cusco before taking an overnight bus to Lima the following night. The 18 hour bus trip was more than 22 hours but Lima is not really that nice a city and my bout of food poisoning was probably well timed as there is little we want to see here anyway. Feeling better now, but spent most of the day in bed except to venture out into the weird of blanket that coats this city, and book another bus ticket tommorrow night. Another 18 hours, but this time we get off close to the Ecuadorian border at a beach town called Mancora. No more mountains for awhile...should be a nice change.
Day 2 was the toughest day with a mostly uphill climb covering 1200 ascending metres that day, and going through the pass known as Dead Womans Pass. It was hard going, but again, our new healthy bodies carried us through leading the group to the top. The campsite was at 4200m so it was a cold night but in such a beuatiful valley with high Andean mountains surrounding us.
Day 3 was the longest day but walking through cloud forest and several Inca sites was fantastic and we could walk at our own pace for the most part and so we often found ourselves alone to appreicate the stunning mountain scenery which at times verges on rainforest with varying degress of humidity.
Up early on the last day...4am...to join the line of other hikers waiting at the last checkpoint of the Machu Picchu National Park. On our way at 5.30am for the final hour or so hike to the famous Inca city...althougb it should be said that it is neither the biggest or the lost or the last city of the Incas. The biggest site is in the same general area although another good 5 or something days hike and not promoted well. The lost city is still lost and though to possibly be in the Amazon basin. But Machu Picchu is the most well known and were stoked to be there and so it was slightly disappointing to wake after 3 days of perfect weather hiking to discover rain and cloud and when we finally reached the Sun Gate for the ´postcard photo´ of Machu Picchu...there was nothing to see...thats right...nada. Continiuing on, we hiked down to the main centre and took a break and prayed to PachuMama ...Mother Earth in South America...for some clearance on the clouds...and it soon happened, yeah!!! and we set off to explore the site.
Machu Pichu is bigger than i expected and so perfectly preserved. The Incas really were smart guys as the buildings they made in the 15th century have withstood several earthquakes and remain today as an outstanding relic of architecture and workmanship. We learnt from our great guide David, and saw for ourselves that the Incas knew about toilets and drainages systems, we saw their lock systems and housing for the noble plus the villagers, watch towers and ceremonial rocks. It was so rewarding to be there, until the hoards of tourists started to arrive on the buses, and having been there since 6am and perhaps unfairly feeling like we deserved the place to be less packed after 4 days of hiking, we took in the site and retired down to the town of Aguas Calientes for lunch and then a soak in the hot springs with a pisco sour brought to us the pools. Ah...so well deserverd.
All up, we hiked 42km and by the 4th day, my body was feeling weary. The Inca Trail is well worn and for the most part fairly easy underfoot, however I enjoyed it more than i thought as I had a feeling there may be too many people on the trail. The Peruvian government has strictly limited numbers on the trail nowadays, however, they could do with limiting the numbers at Machu Picchu as well. But its a prime tourist attractrion and the cost of a coffee alone was an slap in the face reminder that they are raking it in here. Intersting to see what happens in the next few years as Machu Picchu is sinking at a rate of 1cm a year and there is talk of building viewing bridges around the site to prevent people walking on it. But if its cloudy like what intially happend to us, then you cant see anything til it lifts and you walk lower.
Anyways...we left very satisfyied and tired and I thoroughly enjoyed my massge the next day back in Cusco before taking an overnight bus to Lima the following night. The 18 hour bus trip was more than 22 hours but Lima is not really that nice a city and my bout of food poisoning was probably well timed as there is little we want to see here anyway. Feeling better now, but spent most of the day in bed except to venture out into the weird of blanket that coats this city, and book another bus ticket tommorrow night. Another 18 hours, but this time we get off close to the Ecuadorian border at a beach town called Mancora. No more mountains for awhile...should be a nice change.
Thursday, April 23, 2009
Cusco, Peru
After our best bus trip so far, we arrived the ancient Inca city of Cusco 3 days ago. The main plaza as you can imagine is filled with toursit restuarants and tour agencies, but surrounding all this is a beautiful city of cobblestone streets, archways, old churches, and Inca architecture. Inca stonework remains perfectly in tact in street walls and buildings including the Iglesia de Santa Domingo church. Back in the 158th century, the Spanish conquistadors tore down structures that were lined with gold and then rebuilt parts. The excellence and finery of the Inca stoneworks is evdidently far superior with perfectly straight lines and very thin limestone bindings.
Yesterday we had a full day of visting Inca sites around Cusco, including Pîsaq (citadels perched high over the villages), Moray (circular terrace experiments in farming), Salineas (the natural salt terraces of the Incas), an Chincero (huge ruins in perfect condition).
We head off on the Inca trail tommorrow...will write more on this post later as i have to get soe things together.
Yesterday we had a full day of visting Inca sites around Cusco, including Pîsaq (citadels perched high over the villages), Moray (circular terrace experiments in farming), Salineas (the natural salt terraces of the Incas), an Chincero (huge ruins in perfect condition).
We head off on the Inca trail tommorrow...will write more on this post later as i have to get soe things together.
Sunday, April 19, 2009
Isla Del Sol - Bolivia. Puno, and Arequipa - Peru
We have been busy since the last time i wrote...changed countries, diets and currencies, hiked canyons and visited floating islands. Here´s an update...
From the coastal town of Copacabana, we took a boat for an hour and half to the tranquil island of Isla Del Sol which sits in the middle of Lake Titicaca on the Bolivian side. It was a beautiful blue sky day and we walked around this big island which has remained fairly unchanged by tourism. Villagers seve coffee in their front yards alongside their llamas, and trails are rocky leading through hills of sheeps and donkeys and plantations of quinoa which is kind of like couscous or rice and is added to soups and mashed like potato. Famous for trout, i enjoyed a change of diet from the regular Bolivian dishs of rice and chicken, and ate trout for 4 days straight. The island was really realxing so we stopped and just sat for a couple of hours on a cliff side in the sun. Being Easter Sunday, or possibly for a wedding celebration or something, there were fireworks over the lake at night before the skies turned and a tremedous storm took place overnight. We left the next day for a 3 hour bus trip across the border to Peru which was a simple process, and this is where we are now.
Arriving in Puno we could see the change in lifestyle quickly. Peru is more accustomed to tourism and people are a little more forward and friendly with travellers. Roads are more likely to be paved, toilets come equip with toilet paper (although not always), and things are just a little more organised. The food so far has been fantastic (alpaca meals have been suberb, and just new menu and market choices...woohoo), and we are throughly enjoying pisco sours which is a alcholic beverage made of pisco (white grape brandy), egg white, sugar syrup and...? Delicious.
We stayed in Puno and visted the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca, which is the floating islands of Uros. Super touristy, but something to be seen regardless. People live and make a living on approx 80 reed islands on the lake. Its quite fascinating to get off the boat and be on a island made entirely of reeds which is soft underfoot. People fish for trout and make crafts and build reed boats as part of a very old culture and lifestyle which has been monopolised by tourism, but is still really special and intersting.
Off to Arequipa next which is where we are now. Arequipa is really quite stunning. It is the nicest city we have been in so far, however more Spanish than indigenous Sth American. Surrounded by huge snow capped volcanoes and mountain ranges, the city centre is remininscent of somwhere in Europe. The plaza is super clean with palm trees and gorgeous churches, the people and restuarants are trendy and the climate is warm.
About 6 hours from Arequipa, lies the worlds second deepest canyon called Canon Del Colca. We have just completed a 2 day/1 nights trek into this canyon (15km all up). It begins at an elevation of 3280m and plummets to the river at 2160m. So the first day is a steep drop of over 1000m, crossing the canyon and walking through local villages which are really quite remote. There are no roads here, so everything is transported by foot or mules or produced locally. We stayed overnight at the bottom in a lodging with a pool but with no electricity, and then of course...what goes down, must come up (the reverse of this saying still works here!) The trek up is said to take about 3 hours and we completed it in about 2 hours, 15 mins which is damn good going if i must say myslef, however my calves are definitely feeling it today! At the end, we visted the hot springs which, at a toasty 39 degrees, was good for the muscles. Another very cool part of this trip was a stop off at the Cruz Del Condor where condors glide through the valley and make spectacular viewing. Their wing span grows to up to 3 metres long and they come really close to the viewing point. We saw several cruise by, very impressive.
Tommorrow night, we are taking a bus to Cusco where we will spend 3 nights before beginning the Inca trail to Machu Picchu.
From the coastal town of Copacabana, we took a boat for an hour and half to the tranquil island of Isla Del Sol which sits in the middle of Lake Titicaca on the Bolivian side. It was a beautiful blue sky day and we walked around this big island which has remained fairly unchanged by tourism. Villagers seve coffee in their front yards alongside their llamas, and trails are rocky leading through hills of sheeps and donkeys and plantations of quinoa which is kind of like couscous or rice and is added to soups and mashed like potato. Famous for trout, i enjoyed a change of diet from the regular Bolivian dishs of rice and chicken, and ate trout for 4 days straight. The island was really realxing so we stopped and just sat for a couple of hours on a cliff side in the sun. Being Easter Sunday, or possibly for a wedding celebration or something, there were fireworks over the lake at night before the skies turned and a tremedous storm took place overnight. We left the next day for a 3 hour bus trip across the border to Peru which was a simple process, and this is where we are now.
Arriving in Puno we could see the change in lifestyle quickly. Peru is more accustomed to tourism and people are a little more forward and friendly with travellers. Roads are more likely to be paved, toilets come equip with toilet paper (although not always), and things are just a little more organised. The food so far has been fantastic (alpaca meals have been suberb, and just new menu and market choices...woohoo), and we are throughly enjoying pisco sours which is a alcholic beverage made of pisco (white grape brandy), egg white, sugar syrup and...? Delicious.
We stayed in Puno and visted the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca, which is the floating islands of Uros. Super touristy, but something to be seen regardless. People live and make a living on approx 80 reed islands on the lake. Its quite fascinating to get off the boat and be on a island made entirely of reeds which is soft underfoot. People fish for trout and make crafts and build reed boats as part of a very old culture and lifestyle which has been monopolised by tourism, but is still really special and intersting.
Off to Arequipa next which is where we are now. Arequipa is really quite stunning. It is the nicest city we have been in so far, however more Spanish than indigenous Sth American. Surrounded by huge snow capped volcanoes and mountain ranges, the city centre is remininscent of somwhere in Europe. The plaza is super clean with palm trees and gorgeous churches, the people and restuarants are trendy and the climate is warm.
About 6 hours from Arequipa, lies the worlds second deepest canyon called Canon Del Colca. We have just completed a 2 day/1 nights trek into this canyon (15km all up). It begins at an elevation of 3280m and plummets to the river at 2160m. So the first day is a steep drop of over 1000m, crossing the canyon and walking through local villages which are really quite remote. There are no roads here, so everything is transported by foot or mules or produced locally. We stayed overnight at the bottom in a lodging with a pool but with no electricity, and then of course...what goes down, must come up (the reverse of this saying still works here!) The trek up is said to take about 3 hours and we completed it in about 2 hours, 15 mins which is damn good going if i must say myslef, however my calves are definitely feeling it today! At the end, we visted the hot springs which, at a toasty 39 degrees, was good for the muscles. Another very cool part of this trip was a stop off at the Cruz Del Condor where condors glide through the valley and make spectacular viewing. Their wing span grows to up to 3 metres long and they come really close to the viewing point. We saw several cruise by, very impressive.
Tommorrow night, we are taking a bus to Cusco where we will spend 3 nights before beginning the Inca trail to Machu Picchu.
Saturday, April 11, 2009
Tiahuanaco, Sorata, and Lake Titicaca - Bolivia
Feliz Semana Santa...or Happy Easter! For this holiday period, we find ourselves in Lake Titicaca - along with the majority of La Paz residents who escape to the seaside (well, lake) for a 4 day break. The timing was not something we had planned, but its been entertaining in many ways. Arriving here on Good Friday was an adventure in itself as we scrambled along the roads with thousands of other vehicles crammed with as many people as there is physical space. With only milimetres spare, drivers would barge on through, and the dual lane road became just one direction with every leaving the city. Intially coming the other way, we were literally run off the road in our bus (which is really a van with seats in it which somehow can fit up to 18 or so people), and got directed on a detour through peoples fields and paddocks kicking up a storm of dust and rocks along the way. The second bus trip enroute to Lake Titicaca was better and we overtook everyone before arriving at the lake where we had to get off the bus so it could get carried over on a barge with the hundreds of other holiday-goers cars. We got on the people barge and then only just found our bus on the other side. A close call.
Lake Titicaca is a place where Catholic pilgrams flock to so on Good Friday evening, there was a candle parade through the town. Cars here get blessed here everyday, not just Easter, so there are cars everywhere sprouting colourful flower decorations. People camp out anywhere and bring their pets along for the holiday season too, including monkeys and llamas. The lake is filled with paddle boats, row boats and kayaks, and so we thought we would holiday with the Bolivians and hopped in a lovely swan paddle boat for some fun this afternoon. Tommorrow we are heading across to the Isla del Sol for the day and night.
Before arriving here, we spent 3 nights in Sorata which is a zen like town surrounded by lush green mountains of plantations and farming families. Great hiking, and we did a full day hike to a place called Gruta San Pedro. It was a huge cave with a biug underground lake and small bats that live inside.
Another day trip in the past week was a venture out of La Paz toTiahuanaco which is Bolivias most significant archaelogical site. A civilisation thought to have risen about 600BC and is older than the Incas. The site is still very much being excated, and it was great to see a work in progress with local people carefully sifting though the site which already has uncovered large and well preserved pyramids and ceremonial grounds.
We are heading to Peru in 2 days so will write next from there.
Lake Titicaca is a place where Catholic pilgrams flock to so on Good Friday evening, there was a candle parade through the town. Cars here get blessed here everyday, not just Easter, so there are cars everywhere sprouting colourful flower decorations. People camp out anywhere and bring their pets along for the holiday season too, including monkeys and llamas. The lake is filled with paddle boats, row boats and kayaks, and so we thought we would holiday with the Bolivians and hopped in a lovely swan paddle boat for some fun this afternoon. Tommorrow we are heading across to the Isla del Sol for the day and night.
Before arriving here, we spent 3 nights in Sorata which is a zen like town surrounded by lush green mountains of plantations and farming families. Great hiking, and we did a full day hike to a place called Gruta San Pedro. It was a huge cave with a biug underground lake and small bats that live inside.
Another day trip in the past week was a venture out of La Paz toTiahuanaco which is Bolivias most significant archaelogical site. A civilisation thought to have risen about 600BC and is older than the Incas. The site is still very much being excated, and it was great to see a work in progress with local people carefully sifting though the site which already has uncovered large and well preserved pyramids and ceremonial grounds.
We are heading to Peru in 2 days so will write next from there.
Friday, April 3, 2009
La Paz, Bolivia
Well...we hit La Paz on Monday morning and began expolring this big, notorious city. Being a capital, La Paz has a commerical and business feel to it with suits and modern attire, mixed in still with the tradiotional skirts and hats of the women {albiet with more ruffles, lace and finer textures}. At an altitude of 3660m, it quite warm during the day and cold at night. The city is nestled between mountains and the centre sits snug in the middle so theres hills to walk to get anywhere.
The witches market is a fascinating strip where you can purchase anything from llama fetuses, herbs, potions, tiger skins...plus your regular Sth American offerings of woven goods and food and drinks. There is no excuse for having un-shined shoes here in La Paz with shoe shine boys on every corner. They wear woollen balaclavas and are quite an intimidating vision at first, but the reason for this is firstly due to the toxicity of the polish, and secondly because it is considered a lowly job and the balaclavas help with anonymity and allow them to be more forward (¨really no, we do not need our dirty suede hiking boots polished thanks!¨)
Our timing was particular good for arriving in La Paz, as Bolivia was playing Argentina in the World Cup qualifier on Wednesday. So we scored some tickets and went along. Due to the altitude and a supposed disadvantage to the visiting team, games are not often played here. But Argentina and Maradona thought they would give it a go anyway. Sold out stadium, awesome seats for 25 aussie dollars and wait for it...Bolivia won 6-1 !! Unheard of, and a historic moment for this country (espceially against one of the best teams in the world) and such an exicting game to be at.
A funny thing about the game was that you can buy tickets to it at a chicken shop in the middle of the city!! Chicken is big over here, and only in Bolivia can you buy tix to the world cup qualifier at the local chicken shop!! We have had several funny restuarant experiences including a stella visit to a Morroccan restuarnt but it doesnt translate in words.
We have not yet made it inside San Pedro jail {aka Marching Powder book for those who have read it}, however we have watched the prisoners being escorted in from the plaza in front. There are police guards around the place, but there are police with riot gear everywhere in Bolivia so this does little to signify that it´s a prison (we apparently missed a riot of some sort by 5 minutes the day of the futbol). The strange thing is that San Pedro is in the very centre of the city, as opposed to the outskirts like you would expect.
As well as a very visible police presence, Bolivia is filled with political messages painted on walls and highways. Messages of new consitutions and pro-Evo (the president) colour the country. Evo is well liked here, and partly for his yes-stance on coca. The chewin of coca in Bolivia is huge and deeply rooted in their traditions for everything. It dates back 2500 BC to pre Inca times (knowledge we acquired in the Coca Musuem). Despite being used in medicine (nowadays synathectic novacaine is used) and of course Coca Cola, coca leaves help the body to take in more oxygen and are therefore a key factor in the lives pf people who live at high altitude.
At the moment, we are in Corioco which is a beautiful town, again surrounded by mountains, but here it is lush and hot and humid. Condors circle the area, flying gracefully on the thermals. We have enjoyed the pool and the sushine today after a very adventuous day yesterday where we rode bikes down the Worlds Most Dangerous Road (or ´Death Road´ if you prefer the short version). Its 64 km, mostly downhill with cliff drop offs 600+ metres. At times the road is really narrow {although, we were expecting it to be worse}. These days, there are little vehicles on this road so not as dangerous as previously where many people have died every year (crosses regularly mark the road). It was fantastic and a real adrenalin thrill to be gunning it down gravel roads through rainforest and waterfalls and sketchy trails. Lots of fun.
The witches market is a fascinating strip where you can purchase anything from llama fetuses, herbs, potions, tiger skins...plus your regular Sth American offerings of woven goods and food and drinks. There is no excuse for having un-shined shoes here in La Paz with shoe shine boys on every corner. They wear woollen balaclavas and are quite an intimidating vision at first, but the reason for this is firstly due to the toxicity of the polish, and secondly because it is considered a lowly job and the balaclavas help with anonymity and allow them to be more forward (¨really no, we do not need our dirty suede hiking boots polished thanks!¨)
Our timing was particular good for arriving in La Paz, as Bolivia was playing Argentina in the World Cup qualifier on Wednesday. So we scored some tickets and went along. Due to the altitude and a supposed disadvantage to the visiting team, games are not often played here. But Argentina and Maradona thought they would give it a go anyway. Sold out stadium, awesome seats for 25 aussie dollars and wait for it...Bolivia won 6-1 !! Unheard of, and a historic moment for this country (espceially against one of the best teams in the world) and such an exicting game to be at.
A funny thing about the game was that you can buy tickets to it at a chicken shop in the middle of the city!! Chicken is big over here, and only in Bolivia can you buy tix to the world cup qualifier at the local chicken shop!! We have had several funny restuarant experiences including a stella visit to a Morroccan restuarnt but it doesnt translate in words.
We have not yet made it inside San Pedro jail {aka Marching Powder book for those who have read it}, however we have watched the prisoners being escorted in from the plaza in front. There are police guards around the place, but there are police with riot gear everywhere in Bolivia so this does little to signify that it´s a prison (we apparently missed a riot of some sort by 5 minutes the day of the futbol). The strange thing is that San Pedro is in the very centre of the city, as opposed to the outskirts like you would expect.
As well as a very visible police presence, Bolivia is filled with political messages painted on walls and highways. Messages of new consitutions and pro-Evo (the president) colour the country. Evo is well liked here, and partly for his yes-stance on coca. The chewin of coca in Bolivia is huge and deeply rooted in their traditions for everything. It dates back 2500 BC to pre Inca times (knowledge we acquired in the Coca Musuem). Despite being used in medicine (nowadays synathectic novacaine is used) and of course Coca Cola, coca leaves help the body to take in more oxygen and are therefore a key factor in the lives pf people who live at high altitude.
At the moment, we are in Corioco which is a beautiful town, again surrounded by mountains, but here it is lush and hot and humid. Condors circle the area, flying gracefully on the thermals. We have enjoyed the pool and the sushine today after a very adventuous day yesterday where we rode bikes down the Worlds Most Dangerous Road (or ´Death Road´ if you prefer the short version). Its 64 km, mostly downhill with cliff drop offs 600+ metres. At times the road is really narrow {although, we were expecting it to be worse}. These days, there are little vehicles on this road so not as dangerous as previously where many people have died every year (crosses regularly mark the road). It was fantastic and a real adrenalin thrill to be gunning it down gravel roads through rainforest and waterfalls and sketchy trails. Lots of fun.
Saturday, March 28, 2009
Sucre, Bolivia
One of the best parts of travelling is when you accidently find yourself in the middle of some national or provincial celebration. This has happened to us nearly every day for the past week and the challenge has been to work out exactly what is going on when everything is in Spanish.
Sucre is the judicial capital of Bolivia and nice city of white archways and colonial, well kept housing and churches. This week marks the bicennetary of independence, and we have found ourselves in the middles of parades of school bands, city marches and potlicial speeches from the balcony of the goverenment building in the plaza. Add to this, dynamite explosions (positive, we think) and chants and signs and general proudness of this citys liberal accomplishments. And then a similar parade about tubercululosis the next day? Alas, we know little about the detail but it´s fun to be part of it!
In Sucre we have chilled out and slowed the pace down a bit. We visisted the highly regarded Musuem of Indigenous Art yesterday which details the weaving and clothing of Bolivian and Andean people, and the stories of the designs and labour-intensive hand woven, methods of the unique clothing here. Really intersting place, and we have a increased respect for the weaving culture now and are off to buy a piece for our wall back home. Also checked out the Casa de la Libertad (House of Liberty) which is a beuatiful colonial house where the declaration of independence was signed and historical and political artifacts are on display. We aslo visited a Dinosaur park where hundreds of dinosaur tracks measuring up to 80cm in diameter were found in the quest for mining. Quite amazing to see (even if not up very close), and hopefully something they can presevere long term.
Have been eating lots of local food including saltenas - a folded pastry dish with chicken or meat, spice, potato, and date which is excellent. Have been adventourous with local food (within a fairly safe hygiene level still) and have not had any unwellness yet which is great. There are no real supermarkets in Bolivia and all foods are purchased from markets which are a fantastic array of colours, and smells and any goods you can want. The very exposed displays of meat and chicken and innards make me a little squeamish, but the fruit and veg area is fanastic.
Tonight we are going to watch a movie called The Devils Miner which is a Bolivian film about the mines in Potosi and the life of a 14 year child who worked in them. Tommorrow we are going to a indigeous village where there have great cultural markets, before taking a overnight bus to La Paz which is technically the capital of La Paz after taking the trophy from Sucre in the recent past. But dont tell Sucre that.
Sucre is the judicial capital of Bolivia and nice city of white archways and colonial, well kept housing and churches. This week marks the bicennetary of independence, and we have found ourselves in the middles of parades of school bands, city marches and potlicial speeches from the balcony of the goverenment building in the plaza. Add to this, dynamite explosions (positive, we think) and chants and signs and general proudness of this citys liberal accomplishments. And then a similar parade about tubercululosis the next day? Alas, we know little about the detail but it´s fun to be part of it!
In Sucre we have chilled out and slowed the pace down a bit. We visisted the highly regarded Musuem of Indigenous Art yesterday which details the weaving and clothing of Bolivian and Andean people, and the stories of the designs and labour-intensive hand woven, methods of the unique clothing here. Really intersting place, and we have a increased respect for the weaving culture now and are off to buy a piece for our wall back home. Also checked out the Casa de la Libertad (House of Liberty) which is a beuatiful colonial house where the declaration of independence was signed and historical and political artifacts are on display. We aslo visited a Dinosaur park where hundreds of dinosaur tracks measuring up to 80cm in diameter were found in the quest for mining. Quite amazing to see (even if not up very close), and hopefully something they can presevere long term.
Have been eating lots of local food including saltenas - a folded pastry dish with chicken or meat, spice, potato, and date which is excellent. Have been adventourous with local food (within a fairly safe hygiene level still) and have not had any unwellness yet which is great. There are no real supermarkets in Bolivia and all foods are purchased from markets which are a fantastic array of colours, and smells and any goods you can want. The very exposed displays of meat and chicken and innards make me a little squeamish, but the fruit and veg area is fanastic.
Tonight we are going to watch a movie called The Devils Miner which is a Bolivian film about the mines in Potosi and the life of a 14 year child who worked in them. Tommorrow we are going to a indigeous village where there have great cultural markets, before taking a overnight bus to La Paz which is technically the capital of La Paz after taking the trophy from Sucre in the recent past. But dont tell Sucre that.
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Potosi - Bolivia
Potosi was once the wealthiest Spanish city in the world due an enourmous resource of silver. The streets were literally paved in it. But the area was mined to the extreme and the silver is now vitually depleted. Potosi is no longer a wealthy city but a very intersting one as it remains a mining town. Another intersting thing about Potosi is that it is the highest city in the world at a height of 4090 metres, and yes, it is cold.
Today we went on a mining tour through the cooperative mines where these days, they mine for other minerals most commonly zinc these days. The conditions in the mines are terrible and often miners will die within 10 years of entering the mines. The safety and health provisions are virtually non-existent and we encountered alot of asbestos inside. The potenetial earnings though for miners is double the minimum Bolivian wage and so men continue to work here although the number has dropped in recent years from 15000 miners to only 4000, and thankfully only about 15 children work here now.
For the tour, they equip you with a hard hat, jacket, pants, gum boots, and a head torch, and you only stay inside for 2 hours. Before entering, you buy presents for the miners inclusing coca leaves, dynamite, alcohol(96%!!) and cigarrettes. And we bought ourselves a face mask to help with that little problem of asbestos. Heading towards the mine shaft, we stopped to blow up some dynamite we bought which for Jeb was the highlight of the day/week/month...?!
Inside the mines, we scrambled through dark, wet shafts, down rickety ladders, and through tiny fuse-blown tunnels. Crossed paths with workers along the way and gave them our gifts, plus we were introduced to the Devil Tio which their pray to below ground for good luck. Work in the mines is really hard and very dangerous as there are no maps and teams could potentially blow up areas where other miners are working. There are 5 levels of about 25 metres each, so an áccident´would easily be fatally if the respitory problems dont get to you first.
Today we went on a mining tour through the cooperative mines where these days, they mine for other minerals most commonly zinc these days. The conditions in the mines are terrible and often miners will die within 10 years of entering the mines. The safety and health provisions are virtually non-existent and we encountered alot of asbestos inside. The potenetial earnings though for miners is double the minimum Bolivian wage and so men continue to work here although the number has dropped in recent years from 15000 miners to only 4000, and thankfully only about 15 children work here now.
For the tour, they equip you with a hard hat, jacket, pants, gum boots, and a head torch, and you only stay inside for 2 hours. Before entering, you buy presents for the miners inclusing coca leaves, dynamite, alcohol(96%!!) and cigarrettes. And we bought ourselves a face mask to help with that little problem of asbestos. Heading towards the mine shaft, we stopped to blow up some dynamite we bought which for Jeb was the highlight of the day/week/month...?!
Inside the mines, we scrambled through dark, wet shafts, down rickety ladders, and through tiny fuse-blown tunnels. Crossed paths with workers along the way and gave them our gifts, plus we were introduced to the Devil Tio which their pray to below ground for good luck. Work in the mines is really hard and very dangerous as there are no maps and teams could potentially blow up areas where other miners are working. There are 5 levels of about 25 metres each, so an áccident´would easily be fatally if the respitory problems dont get to you first.
Very intersting experience, glad to have seen what this town is really about. But now, our lungs need some cleaning as there is alot of pollution from diesel buses and trucks here too, and so we are off tommorrow for Sucre about 2-3 hours north east of here.
Monday, March 23, 2009
Salar de Uyuni and the Southwest Circuit - Bolivia
We returned on Saturday from the Bolivian highlands where we did a 4 day jeep tour through widely diverse landscapes including the Salt Flats. This was true 4WD country from beginning to end and we crossed rivers and mountains on very narrow and often barely distinguishable rocky roads. Luckily we had an excellent local driver and a great Bolivian guide Archie who spoke English and also cooked us delicious huge meals throughout the trip. There was also an Irish couple with us, and 6 was a good amount of people for 4 days in a vehicle together.
The region changes constantly and we experienced sun, snow, wind, hail and mountains of lofty heights of between 4000 and 5000+ metres. For the most part, we were not affected by altitude sickness, but you can definitely feel the shortness in breath and sometimes a headache for me. At such heights, it is really cold, expecially when you are getting up at 4.30am when it was around 0 degrees.
This corner of the world is largely volcanic but nothing has erupted for the past 1000 years. The landscape changes from hard rock mountains to gentle slopes with spiky shrubbery and cactus, with animals such as the vicunas and llamas which are everywhere and a industry for the local villages (yes ive eaten llama meat, and its quite good, maybe like lamb?). Villages are populated with only a few hundred people who live in small thatched homes made of mud bricks, and we stayed in these villages along the way. On the first morning, we walked through a long abandoned village and ruins dating back to the 16th century which was very cool to see in the early morning mist.
Other things we experienced along the way were the green and red lagoons, as well as other lagoons in the National Park which are breeding grounds for 3 different types of rare flamingos. We went in the sulphurous hot springs at a toasty tempreature of 30 degrees, plus visited the geyer basin where you have to be careful not to fall in the boiling mud pots of various colours. The area of course, is very importanant geologically and throughout the trip, we were constantly learning about the minerals that we derived from this whole area of Bolivia, including borax, iron, sulphur, copper, zinc.
On the last day, we were on our way to the Salt Flats to watch the sunrise. The Salar de Uyuni is the worlds largest salt flat with an area of 12 000 square kms of salt and sits at 3653m above sea level. It is white as far as the eye can see, with mountains on the horizon at times, but often you feel like you are in the middle of a white desert of nothing. Its quite astounding and was a unique experience. People use salt to build houses in the area and the accommodations for the last night was in a salt made house, with bed bases, tables, stools, walls and floors completely made of salt. Slightly novel to us, kind of like a gingerbread house but salt. On the actual salt flats, there is no housing, excpet for one illegal structure which apparently features the portrait of the president and indicates a level of corruption here.
The whole trip was great and we learned alot about the geography of Bolivia, the industries, minerals, local food and cultures of the highlands. We stayed a night in Uyuni and then got the bus yesterday to the town of Potosi which was a tedious 6 hour bus ride. We have yet to drive on a paved road in Bolivia (except for within the immediate town centre now of Potosi), so the bus charged through some very rough roads and through creeks with the only bathroom being behind the back of the bus at irregular stops.
Will write more on Potosi later as we have a meeting with the mines...
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
Horseriding in Bolivia
I was hoping to upload some photos today of the past month to give some visuals to my ramblings. But internet is very slow here in Tupiza, and no CD drive on computers. Internet cafes are however very popular with school kids doing their homework and playing computer games, and this would be the kinda shop to own around here.
Jeb and i went horseriding for 3 hours today in the wild west of South America. Went all up through the canyons and rock red mountains of the area. Our horses galloped (yes galloped), and the thing i learned today is that you should not wear a backpack with a heavy camera in it, whilst riding through the wild west on a galloping horse without a helmet. But all good and lots of fun (except for a sore bum), and very cool to be horseback in this area.
Tommorrow we heading off for a 4 day trip through the Salar de Uyuni - the Salt Flats. Should be awesome.
Jeb and i went horseriding for 3 hours today in the wild west of South America. Went all up through the canyons and rock red mountains of the area. Our horses galloped (yes galloped), and the thing i learned today is that you should not wear a backpack with a heavy camera in it, whilst riding through the wild west on a galloping horse without a helmet. But all good and lots of fun (except for a sore bum), and very cool to be horseback in this area.
Tommorrow we heading off for a 4 day trip through the Salar de Uyuni - the Salt Flats. Should be awesome.
Monday, March 16, 2009
Bolivia
We arrived safely in Bolivia yesterday, after taking a few hours bus ride to the border. The terminal on the Argentinian side was a bit sketchy and we were prepared for the Bolivian side to be worse, but all was ok. We took a taxi from the Argentinian bus terminal and then literally walked over the border into Bolivian customs (which is not much more than a shack). No bag search, xrays, nothing. Walking through the main strip of the border town Villazon, we could instantly sense that change into a pooer, third world. There were lots of stalls on the main street selling black market and all kinds of necessities. We changed some money to Bolivianos and then got to the bus terminal. Lots of people, bit confusing with our new money and the exchange rate, and keeping our wits about us at all times, we managed to get tix for the next bus to Tupiza (about 2-3 hours from border).
The bus took off about 40 minutes late which isnt too bad for Bolivia. We were very cautious about our bags and making sure that they definitely went on that bus as we have heard some horror stories of people having things snatched from under their eyes. Bolivian buses are not great and certainly not like Argentinian buses so we were grateful for the shorter trip as our bums were already a little sore after 2 hours!
Tupiza is a very dusty town (we have surely swallowed tonnes of dust already and my thoat is perpetually dry). Its nearly 3000m above sea level so you can feel the change in altitude here. Its advised to take things slow in Bolivia so we have done that today. My favourite thing here so far is the old ladies everwhere in their traditional clothing of knee length swivel skirts, top hats, stockings, cardigans, and their hair plaited in 2 long plaits. They sit in the markets selling food and fruits (which is good here). The country has a very old culture and you can see it most in the weathered faces of the older genreations. People live in mud brick housing in villages along the roads or at the base of mountains. As in Argentina and Uruguay, the streets are quiet from after lunch for siesta and the action picks up again after 5. Even school kids break the day in two for siesta, and go back in the afternoon.
Tupiza is the final resting place of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kids and you can follow their footsepts around the outskirts of town. We are going horseriding tommorrow which will probably be a typical way to check out the area.
The bus took off about 40 minutes late which isnt too bad for Bolivia. We were very cautious about our bags and making sure that they definitely went on that bus as we have heard some horror stories of people having things snatched from under their eyes. Bolivian buses are not great and certainly not like Argentinian buses so we were grateful for the shorter trip as our bums were already a little sore after 2 hours!
Tupiza is a very dusty town (we have surely swallowed tonnes of dust already and my thoat is perpetually dry). Its nearly 3000m above sea level so you can feel the change in altitude here. Its advised to take things slow in Bolivia so we have done that today. My favourite thing here so far is the old ladies everwhere in their traditional clothing of knee length swivel skirts, top hats, stockings, cardigans, and their hair plaited in 2 long plaits. They sit in the markets selling food and fruits (which is good here). The country has a very old culture and you can see it most in the weathered faces of the older genreations. People live in mud brick housing in villages along the roads or at the base of mountains. As in Argentina and Uruguay, the streets are quiet from after lunch for siesta and the action picks up again after 5. Even school kids break the day in two for siesta, and go back in the afternoon.
Tupiza is the final resting place of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kids and you can follow their footsepts around the outskirts of town. We are going horseriding tommorrow which will probably be a typical way to check out the area.
Saturday, March 14, 2009
Cafayate, Salta, Tilcara - Argentina
This afternoon we arrived in a small town called Tilcara which is just a few hours south of the Bolivian border. Tilcara could be straight out of a gaucho film set. Its dusty and dry, and surrounded by huge mountains. The Andean culture is apparent now as we head further north. The locals have darker skin and artisean offerings are of colourful ponchos and hats made of llama wools for warmth. Its very pretty here and we are staying in a great hostel perched higher above the town. Tommorrow we head to Bolivia which will be a whole new world, and one that we are really excited about.
Before we reached Tilcara, we spent 2 nights in Cafayate and did a tour through the Quebrada de Cafayate. The quebradas are a spectacular mountainous range of of distinctive formations and colours, mostly red but with sulphur green linings through parts. Wind erosion shapes the quebradas and some very cool strcutures have formed which you can climb on and around.
The next day in Cafayate, we went for a hike to the Cascadas waterfall which should be a 1 hour hike from the base of the mountain. Jeb, Arendt (our Ducth friend) and myself set off and said no to a guide as he only spoke Spanish. Bad idea. We hiked through some seriously intense mountains and creeks for over 3 hours before nearly giving up. Having a breather, we saw some people! til now it had only been insects and a herd of goats!. We crossed the creek again (shoes off, sketchy jumping etc for about the 8th time already). The local guide laughed at how long we had been walking and showed us the way to the falls. Which was only 10 minutes so very glad we didnt turn back, and stoked to have only 1 hour back. Freezing so i didnt swim but nice to have made it and appreciate the hidden water source. Despite the length, it was a very cool hike and we felt sore and satisfied afterwards.
We then spent 2 nights in Salta but didnt do much. Took the gondola up the mountain for views of the city and walked down (1070 steps). Like we needed more exercise! Salta is a nice town with an open city plaza area, but really really busy at night when everyone in town seemed to be out. Also students seem to overwhelm the place, but we think there was a teacher strike or something that day.
We are now going to eat our very last Argentinian parrilla before we head to Bolivia tommorrow.
Before we reached Tilcara, we spent 2 nights in Cafayate and did a tour through the Quebrada de Cafayate. The quebradas are a spectacular mountainous range of of distinctive formations and colours, mostly red but with sulphur green linings through parts. Wind erosion shapes the quebradas and some very cool strcutures have formed which you can climb on and around.
The next day in Cafayate, we went for a hike to the Cascadas waterfall which should be a 1 hour hike from the base of the mountain. Jeb, Arendt (our Ducth friend) and myself set off and said no to a guide as he only spoke Spanish. Bad idea. We hiked through some seriously intense mountains and creeks for over 3 hours before nearly giving up. Having a breather, we saw some people! til now it had only been insects and a herd of goats!. We crossed the creek again (shoes off, sketchy jumping etc for about the 8th time already). The local guide laughed at how long we had been walking and showed us the way to the falls. Which was only 10 minutes so very glad we didnt turn back, and stoked to have only 1 hour back. Freezing so i didnt swim but nice to have made it and appreciate the hidden water source. Despite the length, it was a very cool hike and we felt sore and satisfied afterwards.
We then spent 2 nights in Salta but didnt do much. Took the gondola up the mountain for views of the city and walked down (1070 steps). Like we needed more exercise! Salta is a nice town with an open city plaza area, but really really busy at night when everyone in town seemed to be out. Also students seem to overwhelm the place, but we think there was a teacher strike or something that day.
We are now going to eat our very last Argentinian parrilla before we head to Bolivia tommorrow.
Wednesday, March 11, 2009
Iguazu Falls, Tafi Del Valle, and Cafayte - Argentina
Spectaular. Iguazu Falls truly is a wonder of nature.
Firstly though, we survived the bus there which was no hard feat when you are sitting in the upstairs front seats of a double decker bus and have a panoramic view of the landscape along the way. The further north we travelled, the more lush the scenery was. Plantations of sugarcane, bananas, orchids and just trees and grass and greenery everywhere, with rich red brown soils that bleed everywhere onto the highways.
Arriving in the middle of the day, we were grateful the hostel we stayed in had a pool as the humidity was intense. But perfect blue sky summer weather and we headed to Iguazu early the next day on the local bus. Its about 30 mins from the town centre of Puerto Iguazu. The entry fee is about $30 aus to enter Parque Iguazu on the Argentinian side and walking through the gates almost felt like a amusement park. But you quickly disperse from the entry and the shops, and lose any crowds around you. There are 3 trails you can walk which meander through the park before you see the falls. And when you do, its breathtaking and so beuatiful, and really loud with such an immense amount of water. We took the lower trail first upon advice and you can so close to the falls that you get wet (not so much on the Brailzian side which we didnt go to). Footbridges take you around every vantage point possible and needless to say, we took hundreds of photos as its just so picturesque and lush. You can take a free boat across a section of the falls and then hike up a mountain in the centre for amazing close views. And then, you can swim! How cool to swim in Iguazu Falls! There is a train which takes you to the Garganta del Diablo (Devils Throat) which is the main semi-circular section of the falls where the world literally seems to drop away. Its awe inspiring and we were either lost for words, or could simply mutter basics like ´wow´.
So we had a greta day, did all the trails, and saw lots of wildlife including spiders, and millions of colourful butterflies that land on you as they please, and birds with blue crests, and these animals (cant remember what they called, but they have short legs, a long tail which sticks up and a long pointy nose and are about the size of a wombat maybe). They are really quite tame and cruise about the rainforest. We came across about 20 of them and they could smell something sweet in jebs bag so they were right into and we had to really fight to get the bag back. Very cool.
We had wanted to go from Iguazu to Salta but the bus was full so we took a bus to Tucuman instead (still 22 hours). Have to tell you about the bus food for this trip...for dinner there was 3 different types of sandwichs all with ham and cheese! And, we had already had the same thing for lunch! And they cut the crusts off bread here. Gotta laugh...
Tucuman is just another city, so we deicided to get on another bus for 2 hours north and go to a small town called Tafi Del Valle with a population of 4000, and and an elevation of 2000. The bus ride was amazing as you drive through an amazing rainforest valley which looked like it was out of a fairytale. The lushest place i think ive ever seen, there was no sense of where one tree finsihed and the next began. Everywhere was just green and mossy with a big creek running through the middle of it. So glad we didnt go straight to Salta, because to arrive in Tafi was a blessing. There are mountains surrounding this valley and we hiked one for views of the area with a Dutch doctor we met. It rained all night which was unfortunate, so we left the next afternoon and came to Cafayte which is where we are now. The bus ride again was scenic but this time the vegetation changed to arid landscapes with huge cactus marking the hills everwhere you looked.
Cafayate is a wine producing region and is also surrounded by big mountains. We did a small wine tour yesterday. The best grape in Argentina is called the malbec. Wine here tends to be very dry and my favourite tasting was of the rose which is unsual for me. Last night, the hostel we are staying in put on a huge bbq feast, local wines and tunes. Ahh life is hard...gotta go now as we are taking a trip through the canyon area.
Firstly though, we survived the bus there which was no hard feat when you are sitting in the upstairs front seats of a double decker bus and have a panoramic view of the landscape along the way. The further north we travelled, the more lush the scenery was. Plantations of sugarcane, bananas, orchids and just trees and grass and greenery everywhere, with rich red brown soils that bleed everywhere onto the highways.
Arriving in the middle of the day, we were grateful the hostel we stayed in had a pool as the humidity was intense. But perfect blue sky summer weather and we headed to Iguazu early the next day on the local bus. Its about 30 mins from the town centre of Puerto Iguazu. The entry fee is about $30 aus to enter Parque Iguazu on the Argentinian side and walking through the gates almost felt like a amusement park. But you quickly disperse from the entry and the shops, and lose any crowds around you. There are 3 trails you can walk which meander through the park before you see the falls. And when you do, its breathtaking and so beuatiful, and really loud with such an immense amount of water. We took the lower trail first upon advice and you can so close to the falls that you get wet (not so much on the Brailzian side which we didnt go to). Footbridges take you around every vantage point possible and needless to say, we took hundreds of photos as its just so picturesque and lush. You can take a free boat across a section of the falls and then hike up a mountain in the centre for amazing close views. And then, you can swim! How cool to swim in Iguazu Falls! There is a train which takes you to the Garganta del Diablo (Devils Throat) which is the main semi-circular section of the falls where the world literally seems to drop away. Its awe inspiring and we were either lost for words, or could simply mutter basics like ´wow´.
So we had a greta day, did all the trails, and saw lots of wildlife including spiders, and millions of colourful butterflies that land on you as they please, and birds with blue crests, and these animals (cant remember what they called, but they have short legs, a long tail which sticks up and a long pointy nose and are about the size of a wombat maybe). They are really quite tame and cruise about the rainforest. We came across about 20 of them and they could smell something sweet in jebs bag so they were right into and we had to really fight to get the bag back. Very cool.
We had wanted to go from Iguazu to Salta but the bus was full so we took a bus to Tucuman instead (still 22 hours). Have to tell you about the bus food for this trip...for dinner there was 3 different types of sandwichs all with ham and cheese! And, we had already had the same thing for lunch! And they cut the crusts off bread here. Gotta laugh...
Tucuman is just another city, so we deicided to get on another bus for 2 hours north and go to a small town called Tafi Del Valle with a population of 4000, and and an elevation of 2000. The bus ride was amazing as you drive through an amazing rainforest valley which looked like it was out of a fairytale. The lushest place i think ive ever seen, there was no sense of where one tree finsihed and the next began. Everywhere was just green and mossy with a big creek running through the middle of it. So glad we didnt go straight to Salta, because to arrive in Tafi was a blessing. There are mountains surrounding this valley and we hiked one for views of the area with a Dutch doctor we met. It rained all night which was unfortunate, so we left the next afternoon and came to Cafayte which is where we are now. The bus ride again was scenic but this time the vegetation changed to arid landscapes with huge cactus marking the hills everwhere you looked.
Cafayate is a wine producing region and is also surrounded by big mountains. We did a small wine tour yesterday. The best grape in Argentina is called the malbec. Wine here tends to be very dry and my favourite tasting was of the rose which is unsual for me. Last night, the hostel we are staying in put on a huge bbq feast, local wines and tunes. Ahh life is hard...gotta go now as we are taking a trip through the canyon area.
Thursday, March 5, 2009
Rosario, Argentina
Rosario in the province of Santa Fe, and is considered the third biggest city in Argentina. It lies on the Western shore of the Panama River so there is a fishing industry here and to give myslef a break from meat, we went for dinner last night on the river and ate fish. It kinda tasted like roast chicken though. Not that im complaining! It was really tasty and good and fresh water fish tastes different anyway, but yeah, it kinda tasted like chicken. We have been eating very well here (albeit with little greens) and not always the regular backpacker diet as you may expect from Jeb and i. At least you can do it fairly cheaply here. But you also realise what you miss about home and food is one of them. In particular, we are missing brocooli and good salads, and spicy foods and thai. The fruit it pretty good, but vegies not so. Its all meat, potato and cheese, so a breakway fish meal was great last night even if it did taste like chicken.
Rosario is the birth town of the revotionary leader Che Guevara, and we stopped by his house yesterday. Its just a signpost on the street now, and there is also a mural monument, but he really was born here and Rosario can wave their hands high about that title. We also checked out the Flag Moument which is a massive structure and overlooks the river. The city is a little cleaner and nicer than Buenoes Aires and apparetnly has a cranking night scene, but we have mostly chilled here for 2 days as the hostel we are staying in is new and has almost no-one here so the peace and space has been appreciated.
Our bus to Iguazu Falls leaves at 7pm tonight, and we arrive at 1.30pm the next day. The seats fully recline and we get feed and attended to so should be a pleasant road trip even if it is 18 hours.
Rosario is the birth town of the revotionary leader Che Guevara, and we stopped by his house yesterday. Its just a signpost on the street now, and there is also a mural monument, but he really was born here and Rosario can wave their hands high about that title. We also checked out the Flag Moument which is a massive structure and overlooks the river. The city is a little cleaner and nicer than Buenoes Aires and apparetnly has a cranking night scene, but we have mostly chilled here for 2 days as the hostel we are staying in is new and has almost no-one here so the peace and space has been appreciated.
Our bus to Iguazu Falls leaves at 7pm tonight, and we arrive at 1.30pm the next day. The seats fully recline and we get feed and attended to so should be a pleasant road trip even if it is 18 hours.
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
Buenos Aires from Ferry
Buenos Aires from ferry. Haeding to Uruguay
Our Argentinian friends, Marte and Michael 
Our Argentinian friends, Marte and Michael 
Mercado del Puerto, Montevideo, Uruguay
Mercado del Puerto is a market of parrillas (steakhouses). This is Montevideo, capital of Uruguay.
Recoleta Cemetary
Recoleta Cemetary houses generations of elite Argentinians.
Evita´s grave. More modest than alot of others.
Evita´s grave. More modest than alot of others. Buenos Aires
Argentinians just love cheese. Quilmes is the beer.
Cafe Tortoni. Nightly tango shows take place in this old but beutifully restored cafe.
Palacio del Congreso
Cafe Tortoni. Nightly tango shows take place in this old but beutifully restored cafe.
Palacio del Congreso Plaza de Mayo, Buenos Aires
Cathedral Metropolitana
Plaza De Mayo
Casa Rosada - The pink Presedential Palace and the famous balcony where Evita embraced her adoring crowds.
Political demonstrations are popular in the Plaza De Mayo area
Plaza De Mayo
Casa Rosada - The pink Presedential Palace and the famous balcony where Evita embraced her adoring crowds.
Political demonstrations are popular in the Plaza De Mayo area
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